Houthi fighters, Sadah City. All photos by Spencer Chumbley
We've traveled to Yemen twice in the last two years. Once in 2014, prior to the Houthi takeover, and again in late August and early September of 2015 after Saudi airstrikes had decimated much of the country. Yesterday marked the one year anniversary of the beginning of the Saudi military campaign in the country. The UN special envoy has said that the warring parties have agreed to a ceasefire starting April 10th, and a new round of peace talks beginning in Kuwait on April 18. The below is an account of our time reporting from Yemen in 2015—the people we met and the destruction we witnessed firsthand.
We were walking down a street in the center of Sanaa, Yemen's
capital, feeling relaxed for the first time since we had arrived two weeks
earlier. Most of the city was dark, except for a few windows, gently lit by
candles, or the headlights of cars driven fast by nervous men with a reason to
risk being out at night.
We'd
celebrated making it to the end of
a tense and often terrifying shoot by visiting the old city for kebabs.
The young men cooking the skewers of minced meat on glowing charcoals smiled at
us, waving their hands dismissively as anti-aircraft tracer
s lit up
the sky and the now-familiar thud and boom of airstrikes followed. The missile
strikes in Sanaa weren't as frightening as the ones we had seen in the north,
mostly because they came in predictable batches and hit
generally the
same areas, which people in the capital knew to avoid.
There would
be about half a dozen late at night
, then
another half a dozen or so just before dawn.
As we walked back to our hotel, our bellies full, a fighter jet
flew in low and seemed to suck the air from around us. A terrific whooshing
sound instantly filled the street, like a scream as loud as thunder. Suddenly,
the earth seemed to tilt sideways
. Something exploded just ahead of us.
The other silhouettes on the street vanished and we staggered into a nearby
shop as broken glass fell to the floor. I was carrying
a friend's four
year-old nephew on my shoulders and struggl
ing to stay
on my feet.
We ran back to the hotel and everyone took cover in the
stairwell. The staff and a few families looked terrified as each blast shook
the walls around us. They had been experiencing this for eight months, but
hadn't been able to get used to it.
A plane wreckage at Sanaa's airport
You see the results of this bombing campaign as soon as you
arrive in Sanaa. At the city's main airport, several destroyed planes still sit
on the tarmac next to the main runway. Nearby, military bases, officer
academies
,
and weapons depots have all been obliterated.
Civilian homes have also been hit, sometimes seemingly at random.
Basic infrastructure
has been targeted as if the pilots of
the fighter jets or their paymasters are becoming frustrated by the fact they
are still far from any kind of victory. Sometimes targets that have already
been hit many times are hit again; a house belonging to former President Ali
Abdullah Saleh's son was hit several times over the course of a few weeks even
though it had already been flattened. It seems wrong to call a bombing campaign
that has so far involved over 40,000 air strikes petulant, but that it is how
it often seems. The morning after we'd been caught out in the open we found out
what the target had been: a cemetery.
According to the UN, at least 6,000 people have been killed so
far in Yemen's civil war, roughly half of them civilians. That number only
includes those who died in
a medical facility so the actual
number is certainly much higher. The majority of deaths have been caused by
airstrikes launched by the Saudi-led military coalition.
Yemen's war is a complicated and grave affair. It
started when the Houthis, a Zaydi Shia group from the north of the country,
took over Sanaa and placed the country's elected president under house arrest. Hadi escaped to the southern port city of Aden; the
Houthis, backed by military units loyal to former president Ali Abdullah Saleh,
sent men to capture him
and pilots from Yemen's creaky air
force to drop a bomb next to the presidential palace.
In Yemen's northern highlands, people had largely accepted the
Houthi-Saleh takeover after several days of fighting on the outskirts of Sanaa.
But in Aden, and in the city of Taiz in the west,
civilians took
up arms to fight them off.
President Hadi called for the leaders
of the neighboring Gulf states to intervene in the war.
Ben Anderson examining US-made cluster bombs
Saudi Arabia has long viewed the Houthis as a Hezbollah-like
proxy for Iran, their great regional rival who they believe is intent on
gaining the regional balance of power by consolidating its control over Iraq,
Lebanon, Syria, and Yemen. Fearing encirclement, the Saudis helped Hadi escape
the Houthi-Saleh advance and announced that it would lead a military coalition
of Sunni-majority states to oust the Houthis and reinstate Hadi.
The
U.S. was
wary of the prospect of another
regional proxy war,
still it agreed to support the
coalition as part of
a general attempt to smooth its
relationship with the Gulf states
, including Saudi Arabia, in the wake
of the Iran nuclear deal.
In the early days of the war the Saudis confidently predicted a
quick victory as the Houthi-Saleh alliance struggled to take on the mass of
fighters who would rally to Hadi's side. But their optimism was misplaced. The
conflict has dragged on, coalescing into a series of battles
involving
the Houthis, Saleh, and an array of
local groups
that the Saudis and Hadi have
struggled to bring under a single banner. And while anti-Houthi fighters have
taken back significant swathes of territory over the past six months
,
most analysts think the war has now reached a stalemate.
The Houthis have indiscriminately shelled civilian populations
in Aden and Taiz, preventing food, water, fuel, and medicine from entering the
cities, calcifying regional and sectarian rivalries into hatred that may take
decades to undo. But in the northwest,
where we visited, there has been little fighting on the ground and the main
experience people have had of the war is from the sky, in the shape of bombs
dropped by the Saudi-led coalition and supplied by the US. Local ire is largely
directed at Riyadh, and at Washington and the UN, for allowing bombs to fall
with impunity, collectively punishing the civilian population for the actions
of a militia and
a corrupt former president whom they
had no interest in supporting but could do little to resist.
In late September of last year we walked around the old city, on
cobbled streets that snake around the tall thin houses, ornately decorated with
bands of geometric shapes. Along with over a hundred mosques and Turkish baths,
many homes there date back to before the 11th century
,
some of the first multi-story buildings ever built. The Old City is a UNESCO
World Heritage site,
supposedly protected because of its
outstanding value to humanity. We saw five houses that had been blown to
pieces.
The old market, Sadah City
An elderly man called Mujahid al-Aini was sitting on a small
dusty rug next to the rubble from one of the houses, keeping watch. The house
belonged to his brother and he said he'd been there every day since it had been
struck, shooing kids away because the remaining walls or surrounding houses
could collapse at any moment.
"My brother
was relaxing and having dinner with his children and a jet dropped a missile
and it killed ten people," he told me.
"Everybody was killed. 4 toddlers, 4 girls, and also the mother and
my brother."
He said he had come to the house as soon as he heard the news.
Along with his neighbors he had dug through the rubble, looking for any
survivors. They started digging at 10 PM, and didn't stop until 7 AM the next
morning, when they pulled out the last body. I asked him what his brother did
for a living.
"He had no
connection to the Houthis," he said. "My poor brother used to sell veggies and
tomatoes. He didn't belong to any party!"
Locals confirmed that Mujahid's brother sold vegetables next to
the nearby Al-Fulaihi mosque out of the back of a van. The houses near the
Al-Aini home were badly damaged, and looked abandoned. Most of the family's
neighbors, Mujahid told me
, were too afraid to stay in their
damaged homes.
"The entire
neighborhood is gone," he said.
A coffee and spice trader in his destroyed shop, Sadah City
The destruction in Sanaa was nothing compared to what was
happening in the north, we were told. In Sadah, the Houthis' northern
heartland, entire towns and village
were apparently reduced
to rubble. In the early days of the war, the Saudis had dropped leaflets
telling residents
to leave because
the entire province had been declared a military
target.
The Saudi-led coalition was enforcing a land, sea, and air
blockade on Yemen, leading to drastic shortages of fuel and other basic goods.
The cost of living, including the cost of transport, had soared as the economy
collapsed. Many people couldn't flee if they wanted to. Some
residents
we met couldn't afford the fare for an hour-long bus ride to the nearest town
with a clinic. Although the blockade has eased somewhat
since the fall,
many aid
agencies
in
the area
warn that much of Yemen is now on the brink of famine.
We had plans to head north when we
heard news that a wedding party had been targeted near Mokha on Yemen's Red Sea
Coast. We drove south to the village the next morning. When we arrived
,
residents were still panicked. A stick-thin old
man with a long red goatee introduced himself as Saeed Ali. He led us around
frantically, trying to explain everything at once as he showed us where three
missiles had struck. Almost as soon as he had started, a jet roared above us.
People ran from the nearest cluster of buildings, their heads and shoulders
hunched forward, their faces terrified.
A gas station that was hit during an airstrike, killing 21 people, Sadah City
After the jet passed, Saeed continued his tour, speaking
manically and gesturing wildly with his arms:
"There is flesh everywhere. This is a skull. This is all human
flesh." He was pointing to black lumps all around us on the ground. He walked
to some trees and bushes.
"These
trees are filled with flesh. Still there are legs, arms..." We could see lumps of
burnt skin hanging from branches. I found a jawbone with the bottom row of
teeth still attached. Another jet, or perhaps the same one, flew over
head.
A tiny old woman wrapped from head to toe in a green shawl
approached us with what looked like part of someone's brain in her hands. It
was burned black.
"The planes
left this and went," she said, throwing it to the
ground. The men
quickly covered it with sand and urged her to go back indoors. She began to
walk away but kept stopping and wailing back at us, pointing to the sky.
"They killed everyone. My children,
my sister, and all my family."
One of the targets was a shack where
men had gathered before the wedding. It was barely ten feet wide but the missile
had landed right in its center. The
cushions that had been laid out for the guests were caked in blood and covered
with flies feasting on human remains. I was told that the first strike
was
quickly followed by a second close by and that the women had run
inside another hut.
The huts were little more than circular walls of tree branches
stuck into the sandy ground with thatched roofs attached. A third strike hit
the
hut that the women were in,
Saeed told me. It struck
"like
an arrow" one of the men said a
s he showed me the crater that the
blast had created. Again, it was in the center of where the tiny wooden
structure had been.
A man holds shrapnel following an airstrike, Sadah City
"We just found
bits and pieces," said one of the villagers, picking up yet anther piece of
charred flesh. He showed me where they had found the lower half of one woman's
body, then the torso of another. He picked up what he said was someone's
sternum.
The villagers told us they had gathered the human remains, put
them in cloth sacks, and buried them nearby. They showed us the graves. One for
the body parts and a separate one for the closest thing to a complete body they
had found. They said that
, even as they were filling the
graves, the jets circled over their heads.
Another man asked us to come to his house. One small concrete
building had another wooden shack
next to it built from branches, with
no doors. Inside was a mangled bed. Dark
, wet
patches of blood soaked into the mud floor.
The man said
his 70 year-old mother had
been almost cut in two when a large
piece of shrapnel flew through the branches and into the wall of the main
building. He said two children had been on the floor, and they
, along with his
mother
, had also been killed. His
brother and sister
had died inside where the missiles had
landed. Large pieces of flesh and body parts were still stuck to the wooden
frame of the tent. We heard another jet above us.
Children standing in the trench they slept in for 2 months, holding the tail fin of a US made cluster bomb, Sadah City
"They've been
flying over us for 20 days now, 24 hours a day,
constantly,"
the man said, crying.
"Day
and night. The children are going crazy. We, the adults, are going crazy
.
Because
of the jets. We don't sleep at night."
Soon after speaking with us, he got onto the back of a
motorcycle
. He was going to see some smugglers
to ask if they would take him and what was left of his family across the
Red
Sea
to Djibouti.
Brigadier-General Ahmed al-Asiri, a spokesman for the Saudi-led
coalition, denied responsibility for the attack
in Mokha,
telling Reuters: "There have been no air operations by the coalition in
that area for three days. This is totally false news."
The next day we drove north towards Sadah city. Every bridge
along the main road had been destroyed a
long with countless
gas stations, fuel trucks, and roadside buildings. At a camp for internally
displaced persons (IDPs) who had fled the heavy bombing campaign, many told us
that their villages in the surrounding countryside had been flattened. The camp,
on a dusty patch of barren land, was home to 600 people living in makeshift
tents with just two temporary toilets between them. They were forced to burn
plastic bottles and polystyrene to bake bread because fuel had become too
expensive.
IDP (internally displaced person) camp, Amran province
I asked Abdo Ali
Salem al-Obali
, the self-declared "sheikh" of the camp, what
they had fled from.
"Wherever
these bombs hit, everything is gone," he said. "People died. No one was
left. No stores were left. Nothing was left. We ran away with nothing in our
hands. They burned our village and now we are here."
In an MSF-run hospital, where the staff looked shattered by the
massive influx of injured or malnourished patients, a family gathered around a
wailing baby girl whose right leg was just a short, bandaged stump. Her whole
body was covered with burns and cuts. Her mother, who was also covered with
small shrapnel wounds, described what had happened.
"My child has
died and the other one had her leg amputated," she sobbed. "They
didn't attack any military camps. They killed women, children, the elderly, and
young. They haven't left anything undamaged. They've forced people to flee
their homes."
The general justification for the level of
destruction visited upon Yemen by the Saudis and their allies has been that they are working to
restore Yemen's legitimate government to power and nullify the threat of future
Houthi attacks across its southern border. But last week the Saudis announced
that "major combat operations" would soon be coming to an end even though the
Houthis still control most of the territory they had at the beginning of the
war, and have even pushed into Saudi Arabia, taking several small towns and
military bases there. Saudi Arabia and the Gulf States have hardly succeeded in
showing the world, or its regional rivals, that they are a potent fighting
force.
Men syphoning fuel, Sadah City
What they have shown is that they are able to
inflict widespread destruction on a neighboring state while building
resentments that will last for generations. As we've
documented elsewhere, the US and UK are complicit, both supplying the Saudis with weapons and helping
them run the aerial campaign in Yemen. Neither country seems particularly
interested in getting to the bottom of allegations that the richest country in
the Middle East is bombing some of its poorest people with apparent disregard
for human life.
When we finally got to Saada city, the provincial capital, we
saw what everyone had been talking about.
We'd last visited the
city 18 months earlier and it was now unrecognizable.
On
some streets, every building had been hit by an air strike, badly damaged if
not completely destroyed. Apart from the roads themselves, which had been swept
clear, entire streets of once bustling shops, restaurants, and homes were now
just piles of broken bricks, concrete, and mangled steel.
Even the ubiquitous Houthi "sarkha" banners were
almost all gone. In 2014, the city had been plastered with them, some higher
than buildings: crisp white rectangles with bright red and green Arabic letters
saying,
"God is great. Death
to America. Death to Israel. Curse the Jews. Victory for Islam." Now the
remaining banners were ripped, hanging in shreds, or faded and dirty.
Children and Houthi supporters used to sing out the sarkha
whenever they saw us. We didn't hear it once on this return trip.
Houthi checkpoints within the city
had largely been abandoned. Those that did still exist were manned by the old,
the wounded, or very often by fighters who looked like they had yet to reach
puberty. Anyone able
-bodied and willing (and in some
cases, we were quietly told, unwilling) was off fighting on the frontlines.
Houthi fighters at a checkpoint, Sadah City
The tiny juice bar we had visited two years earlier was
shuttered, the family who
had proudly served us fresh smoothies
was long gone.
The coffee shop once run
by a mature and unflappable ten-year-old
boy was no more.
One flattened gas station still had two
lines of mangled mini-buses, "dabbabs," as the Yemenis call them,
leading up to it in an orderly line. It was easy to imagine what it must have
looked like in the moments before the missile hit. Eleven minibus drivers had
been lining up to get fuel. Two of them were at the pumps, filling their
vehicles. One mini-bus seemed to be trying to jump the line
, and you
could almost hear the other drivers b
eeping their horns and shouting.
Several cars had also been lining up from the other entrance. Then a missile had
landed right on the small roof covering the pumps. Every vehicle had been burnt
into black and rust colored skeletons. Only the bodies of the drivers and
passengers had been removed. We were shown video of their blackened, skinless
corpses being carried away: 21 people had been killed in the air strike.
The
only reason they were there at all, desperately trying to access some scarce
fuel, was because of the blockade enforced by the same people who had then
blown them up
.
The Imam Al-Hadi mosque is one of the oldest in the world. It
had been
open more or less
continuously for 1,300 years
. It was now closed, we were told, for
the first time in its history.
Many of the surrounding buildings, including the once thriving
market, were destroyed. The walls around the mosque were damaged, but the
building itself had not been hit. Not far away, every local government
building—the Post Office, the Agricultural bank, a lecture theater—had been
destroyed, but there too, the mosque was untouched, except for some broken
windows. The coalition could clearly
strike, or spare, whatever they chose.
Anderson stands next to the ruins of a barber's house in Sadah City. Twenty-seven members of the barber's family were killed
I sat on the edge of a huge crater next to the mosque and looked
into the houses that had been skinned by bombs. I saw a
retro TV,
a dresser
,
and the tiled walls of bathrooms and kitchens. In one house, I saw a cheap
suitcase, crammed full with clothes, but not yet closed
, like
someone had
tried to squeeze in as much as possible
and had
struggled to get the suitcase shut.
Maybe the bomb had landed at that very moment. Maybe the anti-aircraft fire had
given them enough time to flee, but they didn't have time to take their
belongings. There were so many possible stories of loss and misery.
We drove to a warehouse that had been struck. It had been leased
to Oxfam,
the international NGO. As with most of
the strikes we had seen, the missile had landed right in the building's center.
The roof and everything inside had been destroyed, but the walls were still
standing
, held up by emergency steel poles.
Via email, Sajjad Mohammad Sajid, Oxfam Country Director in
Yemen, told me:
"The contents of the warehouse had no military value. It
only contained humanitarian supplies associated with our previous work in
Saada, bringing clean water to thousands of households. Thankfully none of our
staff were present at the time but thousands of Yemeni civilians have not been
so lucky."
A child holds the remnants of a US-made cluster bomb, Sadah City
As I was peering through cracks in the building, an old woman,
hunched over a walking stick and wearing a dusty black shawl that covered
everything except her eyes and hands, approached me.
"Oh my son,"
she said,
"they bombed our
tents. They were full of mattresses, lots of food and our clothes. We have nothing
now."
Carrying a white cloth sack with a saucepan in it, she led me to
what was now home for her and her family.
It looked as though
someone had just piled all the debris from the warehouse into one corner, but
it
was actually two makeshift tents, with sheets of white
corrugated iron laid against the outer walls and weigh
ed down
with rocks to stop the wind
from blowing everything away.
The woman showed me inside, where she
had a small gas stove, about twenty tiny and filthy tomatoes, and a pile of old
clothes
that she slept on. A gaunt ginger and
white cat sniffed around looking for food.
"We don't have a withered leaf of khat.
No mattresses and no blankets. Not even one
riyal. We are refugees, my son. They burned us and
we have nothing." She insisted on making us tea, and kept asking that God
prevent us from being harmed.
Anderson examines the remnants of a missile fired on a wedding party in Mocha, on the Red Sea Coast of Yemen
The family had fled the north of Saada during a period of
intense air strikes around the village where they lived, she said. They had
lived in two makeshift tents on the empty lot opposite the Oxfam warehouse. The
whole family was home when the missile struck, she said, and everything they
owned, including the tent they lived in, caught fire. They had rebuilt their
home with scrap metal from
the wreckage of the warehouse. No one
was injured. For this, she said she was grateful.
Her son and four grandsons sat down next to us. One of the boys
draped himself across my back, then onto my leg, hugging me with his arms. He
would look ecstatically happy one moment, cackl
ing and
stroking my beard, and
terrified the next.
"He can't
concentrate like before. He sits like he is not here. He saw the explosion, he
was alone, and he lost his sanity. From that day, he never went back to normal,"
said his father.
"He is an insane man," said one of his brothers.
The Saudis have some of the most advanced weapons in the world
and can clearly target their missiles with pinpoint accuracy.
Their
targets have included schools (159 so far, according to the UN)
,
hospitals, gas stations, ports, civilian homes, shops, and food storage
facilities.
On March 15 an air strike
hit a market in north west Yemen, not far from where we were in the fall,
killing an estimated 120 people. It was one of the deadliest single attacks
since the war began, and the second time in two weeks that a market had been
hit.
MSF, who we visited during our trip,
have had their facilities hit four times. In October, shortly after we left
Yemen, an MSF-supported hospital in Haidan, Saada, was destroyed by a
series of air strikes. MSF told us the hospital was the only health facility in
an area inhabited by more than 200,000 people. MSF have reopened a clinic in
the staff room of the hospital—the only part of the building to escape the
attack unscathed—but are struggling to convince their staff that it is safe
to return.