Last month I found myself sputtering around in
the Utah desert, on my way to a place called Zaqistan. After countless hours of
driving down a series of disintegrating roads, my friend Scott and I finally
hiked two miles through
tumbleweeds to make our way to a gate in front of a lonely immigration booth. We
took a moment to let it all set in. Inside the booth was Zaq Landsberg, a
Brooklyn artist and the 29-year-old founder of the
Republic of Zaqistan. He didn't strike us as
overly friendly, but that was less surprising than the fact that he was there
at all, hours away from running water. He took our passports, scrutinized them,
and stared at us suspiciously. After a moment of awkward silence, he apparently
was satisfied with the authenticity of our documents, and with a thud, stamped
our passports and opened the gate.
"Welcome to Zaqistan," he
said approvingly, and lowered the gate behind us. Little did we know that,
weeks later, the story of the New Yorker's self-declared sovereign nation inside of Utah would blow up, with stories in the
New York Daily News, New York Times, People magazine, and a nod on Conan, along with international coverage in Turkey, Pakistan, China, Taiwan, Romania, Iran, Korea, and the United Arab Emirates.
I first met Zaq in
2013, when he and
Clark Allen, my old roommate
from New Orleans, crashed at my Salt Lake City apartment on a road trip. By many accounts, Zaq is a quiet, somewhat inscrutable person.
As the founder of the Republic of Zaqistan, his muted demeanor seems at odds
with the aesthetics of his country. The place looks and feels as if it had been
created by a modern-day Don Quixote, but in reality it is the product of
someone who would have made an adept administrator if he hadn't also been a
talented artist. His previous work has consisted of all sorts of large
political pieces, from plays on the
NYPD's SkyWatch towers to an enormous cowering piñata, and the incredible precision he puts into
his sculptures are indicative of the subversive yet playful way his mind
works.
"Would you like to take a
tour?" Zaq asked, leading us to a small bunker made out of sandbags. He pointed
out a small tent city that had sprung up amongst the remains of a decrepit arch
monument, explaining as we walked that the desert isn't kind to pretty much
anything.
In the distance, the wooden bones of robots he'd constructed on previous expeditions rotted in the sun, and
the Zaqistani flag waved in the breeze, a bright red banner emblazoned with a golden squid, symbolizing "the mystery and might" of the small country. We appreciated the slight bump, maybe five
feet tall, that he called "Mount Insurmountable," but most of our attention was
drawn towards the imposing, robot-adorned metalwork under construction in the
middle of what he described as the city center, an area that consisted of sculpture and little else.
"This new piece is a play
on a Soviet space monument," Zaq told us. "I'm trying to convey Zaqistan
hurtling into the future, like the sun sets in the United States and rises in
Zaqistan."
When Zaq originally won his two-acre Utah plot off eBay in 2005, he did so with the minimum bid of $610 dollars. Images of the property came with a bright red disclaimer that read, "This might not actually be your land."
'The Decennial Monument' in Zaqistan, erected in September 2015
When Zaq originally
won his two-acre Utah plot off eBay in July 2005, he did so with the minimum bid of
$610 dollars. Images of the property came with a bright red disclaimer that
read, "This might not actually be your land," but the lack of any tangible
differences from one parcel to the next made it purely incidental. The
boundaries from one acre to the next were purely subjective, something that
could be written on a map, but had no bearing in the real world.
"I wanted a piece
of the American West before it's gone," Zaq related. But, upon his first trip to the property one month later, his goals became increasingly political.
"It was a dark time politically and for America," Zaq said. "Iraq was a mess; New Orleans was underwater. The government was not
doing anything. Being the brash 20 year-old that I was, I figured I could run a
country better than these clowns. Not only that I could, but that I
should also
do it. The kernel for Zaqistan was there in the Newspeak and doublespeak in the Bush administration. That whole 'enhanced interrogation' instead of torture, Bush saying Rumsfeld was the best defense secretary we've ever had... The administration deliberately manipulated the English language, and a lot of it
went unquestioned. A lot of where Zaqistan started, and even today, the reality
was obvious to everybody that it just wasn't true."
Landsberg atop the 'Victory Arch,' which is "a monument to an unspecified victory"
But Zaqistan isn't only a conceptual project—it's a physical place, and a forbidding one at that. As we made our way around the plot, Zaq explained that
the majority of the surrounding ground is made up of cryptobiotic soil, a
living crust that takes upwards of ten thousand years to develop but is capable
of being completely destroyed by a single misplaced footstep. He advised us to
try to stick to the beaten path, but in case we ventured off (there are no
bathrooms in Zaqistan), to shuffle our feet wherever we walk. "Rattlesnakes," he explained.
When things go bad in
Zaqistan, they have the potential to get worse in a hurry. The fact that the
only things that can live there are soil and things that can kill you is
nature's joke. Zaqistan is a remarkably remote location in an unforgiving
environment, where survival depends upon a mix of luck, planning, and
improvisation.
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Everything is amplified
in this stretch of the desert. Jackson Chapman, a Salt Lake City resident and recent Zaqistani tourist, had told me before the trip, "Sometimes your ears can ring from the
sound of nothing."
A place like Zaqistan
could not exist without a healthy dose of insanity. Not only has Zaq dumped
thousands of dollars into the whole thing—he estimates costs of five grand for
this year's trip and monument, and somewhere between $15,000–20,000 in expenses
for the ten years of Zaqistan's existence. But he's somehow managed to convince
a handful of others, like me and Scott, to volunteer their labor. In fact, he
considers their slightly psychotic mentalities to be the defining
characteristic of Zaqistani citizens to begin with. "There definitely is a
certain Zaqistani mindset," he solemnly remarked, "in the same sense that there
is a Raider Nation."
Perhaps that's why Scott
and I had started working on the project without Zaq ever asking. Ever since I first heard about Zaqistan, in 2013, I have identified with it. It's closer to my ideals than the United States is, and a look at my medical bills will confirm that. Zaqistan doesn't have a hospital, but if we did, it would be free. Education would be free, and refugees would be welcome. I'm Zaqistani—Zaqistan is the home I have always wanted, even though I had not been able to go there until now.
And so, despite having had orthopedic surgery less than two weeks before, there I was, slamming screws into steel with a
low-powered drill, attaching panels to a metallic skeleton
of what would be Zaqistan's newest monument, the Decennial Monument, which was being erected to mark ten years of independence. In addition to the drilling, we
gathered rocks for a DIY recipe of what we supposed would create concrete. A
local news crew from Salt Lake City was scheduled to check up on the monument's
progress by morning—they'd been vaguely curious about Zaqistan after learning about its existence two years before—and we had no intention of giving them the wrong
impression.
Zaqistan works best as a probing of what is real. I mean, is Iraq a real country? It is from maps and borders or whatever, but effectively it's way more complicated than that. What about Kurdistan? Is IS a real nation? If not, why not? –Zaq Landsberg
'Mount Insurmountable,' at roughly five feet tall, is the highest natural point in Zaqistan
Then again, what
impression were we trying to make in the first place? What exactly was the
point? Perhaps our capricious dedication summed it up—to us, Zaqistan was not a
joke. Or rather, it was one highly serious joke, a place whose existence brought up a slew of line-blurring logical inconsistencies worth taking into consideration.
"Zaqistan works best as a
probing of what is real," Zaq explained as he handed me another battery pack
for the drill. "I mean, is Iraq a real country? It is from maps and borders or
whatever, but effectively it's way more complicated than that. What about
Kurdistan? Is IS a real nation? If not, why not?"
Like all conceptual
notions, nation states exist as figments of our collective imagination. They
are philosophical constructs with real-world implications—imaginary entities
that are totally real in their ability to seriously impact your life.
Our discussion bounced
between a variety of boundary-related topics, from Kashmir and the Falkland
Islands to Juarez. Syrians were piling up on the borders of Europe, willing to
risk death in order to find a better life, but a fictional line stood in their
way. Greece was apparently owned by German banks, and you couldn't buy a bottle
of wine in Utah on a Sunday. The BBC wanted to know
who owns outer space.
"Shit's all fucked up and
crazy," Scott yelled from the other side of the robot. "If it's all arbitrary
in the first place, who's to say that this is any less real than anywhere
else?"
"But that's the point!"
Zaq said, driving the point home. "Zaqistan
is real.
These are real monuments, even if they're completely ridiculous. Zaqistani
passports
are real. They're not fake or counterfeit. They
exist. They're simply not-quite-legitimate things existing in a legitimate
space."
The passports I could
vouch for. I'd had a Zaqistani passport since 2013, which Zaq given me for my enthusiasm in the project. Since then, no matter how many times I'd used the passport, to my surprise, not a single person had ever
questioned its validity. The bodega, the bar, the airport—not once had anyone
stopped me. If they had, it wouldn't matter, as it had all my legitimate
information on it and wasn't fake, just like a student ID. I had my "real" ID
on me in case it was needed, but what was real seemed to be based mostly on what
people considered legitimate.
"Passports, merchandise,
our Argentinian consulate—those are the currency of legitimacy," Zaq explained.
"It's the
perception of legitimacy that makes them legitimate,
not the other way around."
It was around that point
that Scott declared himself legitimately tired. Zaq agreed that the final
touches could wait until morning, so we took a few minutes firing a flare gun
at the moon before unrolling our sleeping bags next to the monolith we'd
created and watched the flames from the fire reflect across the desert. Above
us rose the blood moon, a lunar eclipse that once was thought to have divine
meaning. "Welcome to Zaqistan," a sign read in the dark.
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The next morning, the local newscaster from Salt Lake arrived, genuinely thrilled to be there. He told us the report would be up sometime in the next few weeks. On the day the brief report went up, I held a screening at a local SLC bar. Everybody there laughed at how silly the whole thing seemed, but I was proud that we'd brought a little attention to our little nation in the desert.
One week later, Zaqistan
went viral.
Articles from all over
the world began to flood my Facebook page. Zaq was getting asked to do an interview with WGN, and I was apparently a
star
in Korea. The Zaqistani email account blew up with
messages from people of all kinds, from passport applications (suggested donation $40) to inquiries
about if he had jobs for them. Syrian refugees were asking for help. Conan
O'Brien was joking about Zaqistan, and some of my mom's friends wanted to know
if they could visit the place.
Many reporters who
talked to Zaq were surprised to find out that he lived in Brooklyn, not in
Zaqistan. Information about the country started to change as the story went
further, with photos that
weren't even of Zaqistan included in articles.
Before this, the only blip of media coverage since Zaqistan's inception had been for a three-week-long "embassy," in 2012, housed at a contemporary art museum in Buenos Aires. It was clear the local news spot had helped, but what explained the virality that happened next? Was there something larger about nations and their porous, shifting borders that made this a story people suddenly wanted to hear?
The official flag of Zaqistan. The squid represents "the mystery and the might of Zaqistan"
"If anyone asks me about it,
I can explain it all," Zaq said. "Nobody is fooled when we talk about it. But when
I'm not there, the facade has no explanation, and people start to believe the
wildest shit. Many people get excited about Zaqistan and project their thoughts onto it. It exists as this hope space."
"I think this has only proved
my point—as a society, we don't look at things too closely," Zaq said. "They
misspelled it, used photographs from other places. How could they do that when
they were just copy-and-pasting from an AP article? What they're doing is
buttressing the facade and there's nothing I can do to explain the backend. The
fact that people aren't questioning it kind of scares me even more."
Ana Fisyak, Zaq's girlfriend, who had visited Zaqistan from New York in mid-September, agreed with that
sentiment. "People don't seem to be looking further than the veneer. They're
not researching what the whole thing is really about, and they might not understand
that there are thoughtful elements to it."
Still, we'd achieved part
of what we set out to do, which was to turn Zaqistan into an actual place. By
talking about Zaqistan, the internet legitimized it. And even if few seemed to
understand what the hell was going on, our republic had achieved a form of
international validation.
I asked Zaq what we should
do next. "I guess we continue pursing international recognition, build up more
infrastructure, and see if we can get funding," he said. "We'll probably need to
put up a souvenir shop."
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