We
set off from New Orleans at 11 PM—23:00—on Thursday, December 1. There are only
four of us in a 12-passenger van, but it still feels cramped, packed as it is with everything we need to survive water cannons and rubber bullets in
blizzard conditions. There are sub-zero sleeping bags, food and water,
blankets, extra clothes, gas masks, helmets, and military-grade body armor. A
handmade dreamcatcher dangles from the rearview.
The
veterans I'm traveling with are Adrienne Lahtela, 36 and a former Army captain who served in Afghanistan;
Jonas Hair, 39, a former Navy navigation specialist; and Tom Anderson, 30, a
former Navy medic deployed to Iraq. They are three of thousands who answered a
call put out on November 11 by former Army lieutenant Wesley Clark Jr. and
ex-Marine and retired Baltimore cop Michael Wood Jr., asking veterans from all
over the country to come to North Dakota as human shields for the "water
protectors"—activists who have been camped out near the Standing Rock
reservation in an effort to block the Dakota Access Pipeline (DAPL), a
controversial project being built by Energy Transfer Partners (ETP).
Veterans for Standing Rock, as the group
calls itself, was just the latest voice to be raised against the pipeline,
which critics said would endanger the water supplies of local Sioux—but the
protests were about more than that. As they grew in size and as media outlets
and celebrities took notice, the camps seemed to symbolize a stand against
corporate greed, against white people ignoring the wishes of Native Americans,
against all sorts of injustices.
Supporters
donated $1.14 million to the
Veterans for Standing Rock GoFundMe, which
will eventually pay for the travel of just under 2,000 veterans. (According to Ashleigh Jennifer Parker, a
spokesperson for the movement, "hundreds of thousands of dollars" have been
reimbursed and all of the money should be distributed by January.) An
estimated 1,000 to 1,500 more came separately, finding their own funds.
The
goal, per Clark on the GoFundMe page, was to "defend
the water protectors from assault and intimidation at the hands of the
militarized police force and DAPL security," who had become notorious for using
aggressive methods—including
firing water cannons in freezing temperatures—against the activists. Ultimately the veterans won't get a chance to
do this, since the Army will deny a needed permit and force DAPL to be rerouted
before they even march. But the trip wasn't just about a narrow political goal.
It was about the expectations of thousands of veterans who showed up wanting to
do something good, in many cases
wanting to redeem themselves for things they did in the service—and
coming away confused, angry, inspired, and energized.
Jonas in the van. All photos by author.
The
first six hours, Tom drives and Adrienne chatters. She's tired from dancing to
Dolly Parton at an arena show the night before, but she hates sleeping in cars.
She talks about Afghanistan, how her unit smeared powdered donut sugar on each
other when they slept, how they faked seizures to mess with medics, how Afghans
worried that soldiers used sunglasses to see through their clothes.
Tom
is from Long Island and has its outline inked on his forearm. He has a poli-sci
and philosophy degree, sells e-cigs, and is contemplating a masters. He's here
because he views the DAPL pipeline as a treaty violation. "The part of me that
really does love my country thinks we should be good enough to uphold the
obligations that we made," he says.
Adrienne
speaks Japanese and runs a transport business with her wife. She's lived in ten
states, one territory, and three countries. "This is a gut-check on integrity,"
she says. "If a group of us that have been ambassadors for our country feel
that this isn't right, I think people should listen... I'm a nobody, I get it.
But if enough nobodies are tired of something, it'll change."
Jonas,
who signed his government contract straight from high school, is on a midlife
vision quest. Ten months ago he was working nearly 100 hours a week, managing
nightclubs in his home state of Pennsylvania. "I knew I would be doing the same
thing at 49 if I didn't stop," he says. He moved to New Orleans to bartend and
has been following the protest for months. "I've always been kind of searching,
wondering what else is out there. Guess I'm still trying to identify what that
is."
While
everyone else sleeps, he plays New Orleans punk-electronica, ROAR, and Tribe
Called Quest, before settling on a bluegrass station. That's when, in the
spindly-treed, winter-hills of Arkansas, he has an encounter with what he terms
"spirit animals." Over barbecue in Kansas City, he tells us about the birds,
thousands of them rising en mass, swirling the sky into blackened chaos before
dispersing in geometric patterns. He's sure it's a sign.
At
a truck stop in Iowa, Adrienne meets two hunters who recount an incident with a
sasquatch. She hopes it isn't a sign. America goes on, the accents getting
better and the truck-stop vegetables getting blander.
In
the early hours of December 3, we arrive in Eagle Butte, South Dakota, our registration
point. Local Lakota serve us
fry-bread tacos, and we toss our sleeping bags on the first of many gym floors
and sleep with the overheads half-lit. The
first leg of our trip is done.
A line of cars descending into the Oceti Sakowin camp
When we awake three hours later, hundreds more
veterans have arrived. Jay Cooke, a Cheyenne River Lakota, speaks to the group;
without a hint of irony, he thanks the US Army and the Morton County Sheriff
for bringing the tribes together. Tom, sensitive to ritual, stands apart. Many
vets steal bites of breakfast while Cooke speaks, but Tom listens with his head
bowed, cameo baseball cap dangling from his hands.
Things
seem organized. We sign rosters and are briefed on frontline and arrest
protocol. Around 17:00, we follow a convoy that includes two U-Hauls containing
35,000 pounds of donated vegetables. We pass 130 miles of empty winter fields before joining an
inching line of cars, then we're on a bridge and suddenly, there it is—the
Oceti Sakowin (Seven Fires Council) camp, a sprawling teepee city of roughly
10,000, directly beneath us. It's bookended by the thinly frozen Cannonball
River and the sun setting against distant hills. This is the land that the Army
Corps of Engineers and North Dakota Governor Jack Dalrymple recently
recently ordered evacuated, and our home for the next
three days.
Adrienne in the van
Shortly after descending into camp, our
van gets stuck and we tumble out into chilled air smelling of sage and smoke.
Headlights and strung holiday lights punctuate the twilight, and people cluster
around a fire where colorful towels dry on a line. Pipes poke through tents and
yurts. Kids sled and adults bustle, chopping wood or heading to kitchen tents. We've
lost 40 hours and 40 degrees since we left New Orleans—the camp feels like a different universe. It makes Adrienne think
of
Westworld, even though she's not sure she should say so.
Oceti Sakowin is the largest of several camps, formed to
manage overflow after Sacred Stone, a mile east, reached capacity. It's
closest to a burial ground that Lakota call Turtle Island, which also happens
to be ETP's construction site. Just across the Cannonball River is a third,
smaller camp, Rosebud. The main
drag of Oceti Sakowin is
Flagpole Road, where you can find
the primary medic tent and the Sacred Fire, which serves as camp center. Often
there's drumming or prayer near the fire, and there's always a booth offering
free coffee and sometimes cedar tea, also called "Indian Pepto-Bismol."
Campsites are sometimes organized according to tribes or states and sometimes organized
according to nothing in particular. There are medic tents scattered throughout the camp, along with a handful of
"kitchens," sweat lodges, a shelter for lost pets, and a "free boutique" of
donated and abandoned outerwear. There's
a glowing dome used for films, meetings and art events and an assortment
of construction projects, including compostable toilets.
We
find the veterans tent, large and heated by a wood stove, sign another list, and ask for info. There
may or may not be a meeting in Fort Yates, about 40 minutes away. There may or
may not be a debriefing here after. We've arrived.
The camp at twilight
The Standing Rock reservation has its origins in the 1868
Treaty of Fort Laramie, in which the US government granted the Sioux rights to
land that became the Great Sioux Reservation. However, a good portion of that
land was taken from the tribe in 1877, when whites suspected that the Sioux's
sacred Black Hills contained gold. In 1980, the Indian Claims Commission ruled
that the government owed the tribe $102 million for the land—but the Sioux
have refused the money ever since, even as the amount has grown to $1 billion thanks
to interest. Instead, they're holding out for the return of the land itself. This
sort of conflict exemplifies the sometimes tense relationship between the Sioux
and the US government.
In April, members of the Standing Rock Lakota tribe started
the camp known as
Sacred Stone in the path of the 1,000-mile
pipeline designed to transport oil from the Bakken fields in North Dakota to a
port in Illinois. The DAPL was slated
to go within half a mile of reservation land, and the Lakota worried that a leak would threaten
their water supply; they say
they were never consulted, though legally they should have been, and they claim the pipeline has already
cut through sacred grounds.
Protests against the DAPL intensified over
the summer and fall, and the national media slowly began to take notice. In
late October, 141 activists were arrested
after some of them blocked roads by setting fires and locked themselves to
vehicles. Then,
just before Thanksgiving, on a 28-degree night, the police used water cannons, tear gas, and rubber bullets on the activists. And something
(whether it was a concussion grenade or a "friendly" propane tank is a matter
of dispute) nearly
blew the arm off a 21-year-old woman from New York.
The
veterans who've come to North Dakota have varying opinions on the pipeline, but
none of them are comfortable with that
sort of force against civilians. It's
the violence, above all, that they've come to oppose.
And now they're here.
But what next?
Adrienne, Jonas, and Tom set off for the Cannon Ball Rec
Center, about four miles from camp, where they were told to register back at Eagle Butte. Adrienne wants to hunker down, eat soup, and lay out our sleeping
bags. But Tom is hell-bent on finding his "orders," so we drive to Fort Yate's
Sitting Bull Community College, 40-minutes away.
They
sign another list ("More loose-leaf paper!" Adrienne groans) and find a room
packed with veterans listening to speeches, drums, and chanting. There are no orders here. We end up driving
around Fort Yates for another half an hour, looking for yet another gym, before
cranking the volume on the only station we get—an amalgamation of skating rink
rock and Ozzfest metal—and cruising back to Cannon Ball.
Adrienne
announces that tomorrow, she's heading to camp on her own—"That way y'all don't
have to deal with my nagging ass." Screw the orders, she thinks. She's not in
the Army anymore.
People celebrate after the announcement that the DAPL will be rerouted
At 05:00
the next morning, December 4, we shake awake, dressing in layers. About a dozen
vets are walking to camp before dawn to participate in a water ceremony,
which is
beautiful and unfamiliar to us. People line a steep hill leading to the
banks of the Cannonball River, chanting and singing. Some of the songs are
spirituals: "Wade in the Water" and "This Little Light of Mine." Others are in
indigenous languages.
At the bank, people kneel and sprinkle
tobacco. One man makes the sign of a cross. The sun rises over the frozen water
and Rosebud camp, across the way.
While
we are gone, a short itinerary is emailed to the vets. It lists a few
ceremonies and a single march on the Backwater Bridge, the sight of several conflicts between water protectors and the police.
"It's
like a cruise itinerary," Jonas muses.
"That's
it? Three days of culture and one day of action?" Adrienne mutters. They gather
their things. Tom can stay, but no way are they spending another night in a
gym.
There's
still no word from "higher up," so a few veterans assume leadership and
organize others. Jonny Gorido, a 30-year-old former Marine from New York,
starts a list for frontline volunteers. But
most of the self-appointed leaders urge people to wait.
At
Oceti Sakowin, Adrienne finds some members of the antiwar nonprofit Veterans for Peace (who have answered the call
"unofficially") camping and building wooden barracks. She pitches a tent and is
improvising insulation with hay
bales and cardboard when a woman sprints by, shouting that DAPL is over.
Confused,
Adrienne tries to find information on her
phone, but can't get a signal. So,
task-oriented, she finishes winterizing the tent. Today the weather is
mild, but she's thinking about tomorrow. There's supposed to be a storm.
At
the Sacred Fire, the news is confirmed by elders. Jo-Ellen Darcy, the Army
assistant secretary of civil works has called: Necessary permits were denied. The DAPL will be rerouted. For the water
protectors, that means dancing, drumming, singing, flag and staff
waving, smudging, tobacco offerings, and repeated calls of "
mini waconi"
("water is life"). Drones buzz above as
the sun lowers, painting the crowd in a red glow.
People celebrate after the announcement that the DAPL will be rerouted
Celebrations
continue that night, with fireworks blooming over teepees, even as the wind
picks up and the temperature drops. There is a small drum circle just outside
our favorite dining spot, called California Kitchen. Voices harmonize, pushing
against the drums and sounding ancient and wise, before melding into a
hand-clapping jig. As the group finishes, a green star arches across the sky, just
over their heads.
That night, Adrienne and Jonas discuss
the veterans "mission," and how it's
changed.
"What's the new directive?" Jonas asks. Is the march still on for the
next day? Should they stay in camp or drive 30 miles to the muster point as
planned? The timing of the
announcement has discombobulated people—it's a Sunday, the day before
Oceti Sakowin was to be evacuated and the veterans were supposed to gather on
the front lines. Was this decision made
because "authorities" didn't want media images of freezing veterans being shot
with water cannons?
"I
think the vets showing up definitely had an effect," Adrienne says. "Like, it's
OK to beat up on Native people but not veterans?"
A veteran addresses a group from the top of a woodpile
On Monday, December 5, a group of vets prepares for the planned
march at 13:00. It's going ahead, despite the Army decision on the DAPL. They
gather around a woodpile, some clad in helmets and gas masks. The temperature
is a single digit.
An
older vet climbs the woodpile, taking charge.
"Under
a ceasefire, my corps has never walked into a camp... in an aggressive manner,
which is exactly what we are doing when we put this battle gear on," he says.
"We are giving those sons of bitches up there...the opportunity to put a black
mark against us and this organization." He gestures to the news trucks lining
the ridge.
Most
vets take off their military-grade equipment. But
there is a dissenter.
"We
can't defend ourselves?" the man shouts. "They've been shooting rubber bullets
for fucking six months."
"They
said stand there with us, peace and prayer. This morning Wesley Clark Jr. said
in a press conference, no direct action!" a woman calls.
Someone
else asks the million-dollar question. "Where is Wesley Clark? Raise your hand
Wesley Clark!"
Wesley
Clark is not at the woodpile.
"Who's
in charge?" someone yells.
"The
elders!"
As
the veterans raise their voices, Adrienne walks away. "I'm not going to march
with this," she says. "I'm not going to do anything that's not what the people
want."
It's already begun snowing when the veterans
march, about 1,200 of them walking calmly along the ridge for two hours.
Some carry flags, some wheel the disabled, and everyone steps aside when Lakota come by on horses. Wesley Clark, we later learn, went to the Prairie Knights Casino,
about ten miles outside of camp, for a
"forgiveness ceremony" during which he and an entourage of vets apologized on
behalf of the US government and military for breaking treaties, taking land and minerals, and blasting the
face of presidents "on your sacred hills." The feel-good moment, which goes viral on social media, may be the climax
of the Veterans Stand, though fewer than half of the vets are around to witness
it.
During the march, the weather becomes
unbearable. Snow blows horizontally and shards of ice pierce exposed skin.
Without goggles, it's impossible to gaze anywhere but the ground. Dozens of
journalists scatter up a slope, trying to get perspective shots, and some
photographers clamber atop one of the burned-out trucks. Vets struggle to hold
whipping flags in screaming wind.
When he reaches his tent, Jonas
plunges his numb hands into his sleeping bag to warm them. His goggles are
fogged, so it takes a long
minute for him to realize that his hands are actually in a pile of snow. The entire
inside of his tent is a pile of snow.
He
slurs his words as we crank the van and pile in, blasting heat.
People, one in an Anonymous mask, stand in the snow
That
night, we sleep in the van. The Vets for Peace make rounds, checking on tent
sleepers every few hours. The next morning, a Native vet from Houston named
Marissa Rocha pounds on our window and tells us to find a heated tent. Camp
organizers want everyone accounted for.
At
Rose's, the nearest kitchen, we hear rumors (later discredited) that there were
hypothermia deaths last night. Someone says the dome caught fire and collapsed
with 20 people inside. The elders are asking those without heated structures to
leave.
We
break down camp rapidly, packing gear in the back and anything
life-sustaining—food, water, the propane heater—up front, in case we get
stranded on the road.
"Has
anyone heard from Tom?" Jonas asks.
"He
texted from the casino about 17:00 yesterday," Adrienne says. Now he's not
responding to texts. Calls go straight to voicemail.
On
the main road, in the first 20 minutes we pass at least a dozen cars wrecked or
stuck in massive snowdrifts. We skid by cars that need help, because the roads
are too icy to stop. A snowplow passes and after that, it's a smooth path to
Fort Yates, where we find the gym housing vets. We sign another paper and ask
about Tom. His sleeping bag is here, but he's not.
We
discover that after the forgiveness ceremony, bus drivers weren't willing to
chance the road back to Fort Yates. The elders squabbled about what to do with
the vets. They were given buffet tickets, but should they also be given drink
tickets? Wasn't Veterans Stand an alcohol-free event? Ultimately some of the
vets drank and some gambled, and most slept on bleachers or on the floor in an
auditorium without blankets.
We
change our socks, drink tea,
and call the casino to have Tom paged.
Veterans march in the snow
In
Fort Yates, the vets are restless. Some of them have been in gyms for days
and
never saw camp. They're debating
whether or not Wesley Clark Jr. is actually a veteran.
(In fact, he was in the Army for four years.) They're wondering why
they haven't been reimbursed from the GoFundMe account. They don't know which
elders authorized the march because they say other elders wrote a letter,
co-signed by Clark, stating that it was inappropriate and asking vets to go
home. (Days later, Clark denies this via a tweet.)
"It's
like we're purposely not given information and kept away from the camps," says
John Hales, 48, an Army and Navy vet from Virginia.
"You
got us mobilized... now we can't get to camp, can't get any feedback," says Sam
Deering, 28, another Navy vet from Virginia. "It seems like we brought the
cameras, and now they're kicking us out."
Later, some veterans and members of the tribe
will
complain about this disorganization to the media.
Clark
will admit that some aspects of the operation
were "atrocious and chaotic," blaming a bigger-than-expected turnout, the
horrible weather, and the confusion after the unanticipated victory. According to spokesperson Parker, GoFundMe
had to loan Veterans Stand $150,000 to pay immediate expenses, while the
majority of the funds remain tied up in banks.
As for the three vets I travelled with, they were
paid before we left town, and the Louisiana-based vets don't seem disgruntled.
Tom finds us later that night, at 21:00. He
spent most of the day, December 6, sitting and waiting on a bus that was
supposed to take him from the casino
to Fort Yates. Finally, it did. "I missed a lot of stuff at camp, but some of
the ceremonies I saw were super heavy," Tom says. "I feel like, I don't know,
like I went to a therapy session or something. I was crying half the week."
Adrienne
is interested in helping construct an eco-village, a movement spearheaded by
LaDonna Bravebull, the founder of Sacred Stone Camp. She doesn't care that she
never saw the frontlines. "We were there for the fight, but we didn't have to
go into battle the same way," she says. "We were able to shift our focus."
She
loves the camp, where she "really felt like part of a movement." And she had
her picture taken with her wife's hero, Cornel West, when the activist made a
brief appearance at the Cannon Ball Rec Center.
Jonas, though, seems the most changed. Even
his voice is different—lower, more hoarse. He keeps breathlessly recounting what he calls "frontline
action." He's the only one of us who made it to the contested Backwater Bridge, an area elders discouraged water protectors
from entering because they're trying to avoid direct conflict. But on Sunday, Jonas and some Chicago
veterans who called themselves a "medic team" (one of them actually is a nurse)
were allowed through. Jonas never saw law enforcement, but there were a
couple of mysterious white SUVs among scattered concrete barriers and a handful of aggressive veterans they had to
dissuade from crossing the bridge.
The
next day, during the veterans march, he "held the line," meaning he joined a
row of Natives who linked arms to keep the crowd from approaching the
construction site. The drama of being a gatekeeper ignited some long suppressed
sense of urgency. He'd felt this excitement in his months backpacking once he
left the Navy, but years of handling petty employees had reordered his
priorities. He's already talking about going back to Standing Rock.
"Whatever
I'm doing from here out, I'm going to take part in the things I'm passionate
about," he says. "Not just sit on the sidelines and watch it all pass by. It's
not gonna happen any more."
Cheree Franco is a writer and photographer, mostly working in Arkansas, Mississippi, New York, and Pakistan.