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Divine Was the Judi Dench of Drag Queens

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Still from Pink Flamingos courtesy of BAMcinématek/Photofest

When the drag queen Divine ate dog shit at the end of John Waters’s Pink Flamingos, he knew he was participating in a great publicity stunt. What he didn’t know was he was about to become an icon of American culture. Over the course of nine films directed by his childhood friend John Waters, Divine starred in a series of cult films before dying of an enlarged heart in 1988 at the age of 42, just a few weeks after his role in Hairspray made him a bona fide movie star. Next Wednesday, I Am Divine, a new documentary about Divine’s life, premieres at BAM Cinematek in Brooklyn as part of a retrospective of his life and career.

Directed by Jeffrey Schwarz, the movie chronicles how Harris Glenn Milstead, originally a chubby kid from suburban Baltimore, created the Divine persona and reinvented drag in the process. This week, I spoke to Jeffrey over the phone to talk about the making of the movie, why today’s gay youth needs Divine, and the difference between John Waters’s films and today’s reality TV–centric trash culture.

VICE: What made you decide to make this movie?
Jeffrey Schwarz:
I’ve always worshipped at the altar of John Waters and Divine since I was a teenager. As time went on, I thought that kids growing up today didn’t really have the firsthand experience of seeing those movies as they were coming out—Divine wasn’t known around the younger kids. I wanted to revive Divine’s memory.

Why do you think younger gay guys haven’t heard about Divine?
Midnight movies aren’t really a thing any more. You can’t go out and make a cult movie. Most gay men over 40 can quote every single John Waters movie verbatim, but those movies don’t play in theaters a lot. [But] people like Lady Gaga, who are popular with kids, essentially share Divine’s message: be yourself, don’t let anybody put you down for being different. I felt like Divine’s story of being the triumph of the outsider really resonates today.

Today, pop culture has a lot of women acting like drag queens—Lady Gaga and Katy Perry, to name a few—but few contemporary drag icons besides RuPaul, who became famous back in the 90s. Does it take a homophobic environment to produce someone like Divine?
I think drag is born out of repression. Drag culture has always been on the margins—even in gay and lesbian society. It’s always been a political statement. Divine certainly wasn’t the first person to do drag, but he was among the first wave of drag performers to really turn drag upside down and play with the notions of gender. A lot of the drag queens at the time wanted to be Miss America. They wanted to pass as women—beautiful, gorgeous creatures. Divine was a beautiful, gorgeous creature, but he was also 300 pounds.

Still from Hairspray courtesy of BAMcinématek/Photofest

Was it easy to convince your sources, like John Waters, to participate in the film?
I knew John, because he was in my first film, Spine Tingler! The William Castle Story. He was the first phone call I made, and I wanted to get his blessing. Not only did I get his blessing, but he opened a lot of doors for me and called everyone I wanted to interview and told them if I was going to get in touch with them, he supported this project, and they should do it.

Divine’s mother, Francis, was still with us when we started making the film. She was the first interview that we conducted. She didn’t live to see this film, but we dedicated it to her. I’m glad she was in it; she gave it its heart and soul.

Why was she so important?
I think a lot of people can identify with the story of a son and mother who knew her son was different—and unlike a lot of people in her generation, she didn’t reject him. If he got beat up at school, she’d show up at the school. They did have an estrangement for a time, but it wasn’t because he was gay, it was because he was a little nuts.

How so?
He was kind of a juvenile delinquent. He would write checks in his parents’ names to pay for extravagant parties. At a certain point, they had had enough. It wasn’t even about doing drag. They didn’t even know he was doing drag.

Does it take a juvenile delinquent to star in these movies and break boundaries?
Absolutely. As Divine, he could be in your face—he could do all the things Glenn never would.

Would he have continued to play the Divine role if he hadn’t died?
He probably would have continued working with John, but I don’t think he’d continue to be the star—Divine would have been more of a side character. He would have done more male roles. (He started to get more male roles towards the end of his life.) He probably would have been a grand dame of the drag world—he would be like the Dame Judi Dench of the drag women. We can’t know, but maybe it would have been Divine’s Drag Race instead of RuPaul’s Drag Race.

John Waters’s movies with Divine were criticized at first for being trashy. Now they’re being being celebrated in a retrospective at a cultural institution like BAM. In 20 years, do you think today’s trash will be celebrated?
I don’t think so. The trash of reality TV looks down on people—we’re encouraged to make fun of those people. But that’s not the case with Divine or John Waters films. You’re rooting for the characters. You’re rooting for the outsider. Maybe there will be nostalgia for those reality shows? I don’t know. I do know for a fact that in 20 years people will be watching Divine movies.

@mitchsunderland

More about the films of John Waters:

John Waters’s Role Models

We Interviewed John Waters, and It Was Great

John Waters Is Doing a Live Christmas Show, and I Interviewed Him

 

This Week in Racism: Miss America Is Not White, and Everyone Is Mad

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Welcome to a special Miss America edition of This Week in Racism. I’ll be ranking news stories on a scale of 1 to RACIST, with “1” being the least racist and “RACIST” being the most racist.

-Last week, a new Miss America was crowned, and to the dismay of every person with a bone to pick with those of the browner persuasion, she's Indian. The hysterical screaming you see above was Nina Davuluri's reaction to winning the venerable beauty pageant, but it easily could have been her face after reading some of the more hateful statements made toward her after her victory.

Just about every person outed for their racist tweets after the paegent have been nuked from the internet, either having their accounts suspended or choosing to delete the offending statements after a massive backlash from the media

Davuluri has been making the press rounds in the past week, going on LIVE with Kelly and Michael and Extra, sitting down with the New York Daily News, and just generally being cool about the entire sordid affair. In her Daily News interview, she seemed both pragmatic and resigned to her fate as a racial pariah, saying, “It was something I wasn’t surprised about. I’d experienced those same kind of remarks when I’d won Miss New York and I knew if I won Miss America it would happen again.”

Every time a person of color ends up encroaching on an “American” institution, be it singing the National Anthem or appearing in a blockbuster movie adaptation of a book about kids murdering each other in the forest, Twitter explodes with outrage. It seems that there is a fundamental disconnect regarding what constitutes an American. The United States is either a historically white nation that happens to have attracted a lot of ethnic minorities, or it's the proverbial “metling pot” of diversity. 

It's not just race that muddies the national identity. Some see America's first responsibility as upholding liberty and personal freedom, while others say the country must concern itself with social justice and equality. Businesses should either be able to operate as they see fit without unnecessary government intervention, or they should be regulated to protect lower and middle class citizens. Christianity is either the state religion, or it's one of many faiths in a diverse society. Some of the offensive tweets from last week even chose to refer to Davuluri as a foreigner, even though she was born in Syracuse, New York.

When we can't even agree that being born on American soil makes you American, and the President of the United States has to constantly refute claims that he's not eligible for the job registered voters picked him for, it becomes very clear that there is no actual national identity in the United States. This creates a neverending outrage feedback loop. Liberals make an assertion about American values, then conservatives call them unpatriotic. Conservatives shoot back with their own idea about those values, and liberals scurry to marshall their own set of pundits to fight back. Our leaders can't even agree to disagree on issues as simple as whether or not to raise the debt ceiling so the country doesn't default on its numerous loans. They'd rather just posture and trade invectives until it's too late, hoping slightly more than 50 percent of the population that pays attention blames the other side. America is rapidly becoming a schizophrenic, manic-depressive society, in danger of destroying itself from the inside.

The only way out of this death spiral is to remember why we have the National Anthem and events like the Super Bowl, NBA Finals, and Miss America. We have them to unite us under a common banner, but also they are all cultural touchstones that have no actual meaning. “The Star-Spangled Banner” is a song about a battle that the average American has never even heard of. It just happens to have enough lofty language in the lyrics to inspire people. The Super Bowl is a three hour commerical for cultural excess and violence, but it's fun to watch. Miss America is just a stupid popularity contest that doesn't even have the legitimacy of The Voice. It's a battle to see who is the most poised woman in the country. Standing up straight and smiling are two of the least popular activities in America today, so why the hell should anyone really care about this? I'll tell you why. It's because there's a swimsuit competition and American males still love perving out over hot women. Perhaps it's time that this country stops this torturous existential crisis, holds hands, and goes back to what it's really best at: being gross and objectifying women. RACIST

-The University of Alabama, a college famous in the history of the Civil Rights movement, moved to change its sorority recruitment guidelines as a response to allegations that the Greek system at the school was discriminating against minority pledges. University President Judy Bonner has ordered that sorority recruitment take place at any time, rather than during a fixed period during the school year. Also, she has expanded the limit on group members to 360, in the hopes that these adjustments will spur greater diversity. Bonner made sure that her statement made it known that they “will not tell any group who they must pledge,” since the whole point of Greek organizations is to exclude people.

Now, I'm not anti-Greek. Rather, it must be said that there's no other reason for these groups to exist, but to keep some people out. They're supposed to create comradery, encourage the much-needed skill of social climbing, and reinforce class hierarchies...

Wait, some of that doesn't sound good at all. Still, that's why they exist, so taking that exclusivity away renders the Greek system totally pointless. Besides, there are plenty of secret societies with arcane rules, mysterious rituals, and a history of racial homogeny that we all are happy to tolerate. 8

The Most Racist Tweets of the Week:

 

 

Last Week in Racism: A Red Lobster Waitress Got a Racial Slur Instead of a Tip

@dave_schilling

Cheeseheads With Attitude: The Green Bay Packers Parody Band That Sold 50,000 Records

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Cheeseheads With Attitude: The Green Bay Packers Parody Band That Sold 50,000 Records

Comics: Pizza Weather

Weediquette: A Muslim's Adventures in Pork

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Image via Flickr user Verity Cridlan 

These days, my housemates frequently come home to the smell of bacon—typically, it’s not till I hear the deadbolt unlock that I realize I’m stoned and standing in a kitchen, wearing nothing but elastically deficient boxers, waiting to flip bubbling strips of bacon with a fork. “Do you guys want some bacon?” I ask as they enter. They yes and forgive my indecent appearance no matter their state of the time of day. This is because bacon is fucking awesome—which is something I realized very late in life.  

Although my family was never terribly religious, I was brought up Muslim enough to not eat pork, and that habit stayed with me even after LSD undid whatever little religious devotion I had in the first place. Like a lot of Muslim kids my age, I drank and fornicated, but I still gave a shit when it came to pork. I had never questioned my views against pork till I was 25 years old. At the time, I was in Philly doing boring freelance writing. I wanted to create a personal project that would be both interesting for me to write and provocative enough for people to read. Writing about eating a shit ton of pork seemed like a home run.

Over the next 12 months, I ate every pork dish I could find and wrote about most of them on a blog titled Adventures in Pork. (The subheading was “A Muslim Eats Various Pork Dishes for the First Time in His Life and Divulges his Thoughts.”) The fun part was that eating pork actually gave me some pretty fucked up thoughts. Most people who have eaten pork their entire life probably don’t realize this, but pork has a weird smell to it, a faint putrid scent that permeates the broad array of swine foods the world has to offer. I noticed the smell when I ate my first pork dish, which was a piece of cantaloupe wrapped in prosciutto. Then I caught the scent in a pork chop and later in a goddamn pork rind. Being a newbie, I was hypersensitive to this weird element, and for that reason, I never blazed before eating piglets—I didn’t want to think about it too much. I did pretty well at avoiding weed for a while, but since I smoke pretty regularly throughout the day, an error was inevitable. My momentum was brought to a halt by a classic Philly sandwich.   

Most people associate Philly with cheese steaks, but the city offers a variety of irresponsibly decadent sandwiches—the best one being served at John’s Roast Pork. Situated in a scenic nook between a diner and a big-box store, the restaurant’s outdoor-only seating is engulfed in an unexplained, waxy chemical smell. (For some reason, the smell usually goes away around 3 PM on weekdays.) It was noon on a Tuesday when a few friends and I hot-boxed a car on our way to lunch at John’s Roast Pork. I ordered the standard: roast pork, provolone, and broccoli rabe on a hoagie roll. The cheese pretty much covered up the smell, so it wasn’t until I bit into the sandwich that I tasted an overwhelming volume of roast pork’s signature smell. My stoned brain started to think, and before I knew it, the typical Muslim reasoning for why you should never eat pork echoed through my head: Pigs eat their own shit! Could that possibly be the source of this weird stench? I almost barfed all over John’s fine paper tablecloth.

For a brief moment, I considered giving up the whole experiment, but I came to my senses on the ride home. Modern pork has as much shit in it as any other meat I eat—it wasn’t going to kill me. I was just experiencing the adverse effects of unraveling my childhood conditioning, which was exactly what I wanted to capture in the first place. Being stoned just made the experience a bit too visceral. I picked right back up with the experiments, but after about a year of Adventures in Pork, eating pork didn’t faze me anymore, so I quit the project and hung up my blasphemy.

After that, I didn’t really indulge in pork besides upgrading to pepperoni pizza and bacon cheeseburgers. I still hadn’t breached the taboo of cooking pork at home until a few weeks ago when I was in my neighborhood supermarket. In one corner of the meat section, I spotted 30 different kinds of thick cut bacon—since that discovery, I consume at least a package of bacon a week. The benefits of bacon are numerous: It’s cheap, it’s easy to cook, people are nicer when they smell it cooking, and it produces a liquid fat that I estimate to be worth more than platinum by weight. I anticipate a lot more bacon in my future.

You can read all of T. Kid's Adventures in Pork here.

@ImYourKid

Previously – The Guy Who Was Raped by a Girl 

 

Massachusetts Might Force a Woman to Share Parental Rights with the Rapist Who Impregnated Her

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Image via Flickr user CMCarterSS

In Massachusetts, it is perfectly legal for a man to seek custody of a child he fathered by raping a woman. As strange as this sounds, a woman is currently fighting to prevent this scenario from becoming her reality.

When Jamie Melendez was 20 years old, he raped H.T., a fourteen-year-old girl, impregnating her. (To keep the victim's identity discreet, she's known as H.T.) H.T. had the child, and in 2011, Jamie was convicted of rape and sentenced to 16 years probation. Until a family court ordered Jamie to pay child support, he expressed no desire to participate in his daughter's life. Now he wants visitation rights. Last month, H.T. sued the Commonwealth of Massachusetts in federal court to prevent Jamie from seeing their daughter.

This has placed Massachusetts Attorney General Martha Coakley in a difficult position. In the midst of H.T. fighting her case against the Commonwealth of Massachusetts, Martha announced she was running for governor of Massachusetts. As the attorney general, it’s Martha’s responsibility to represent Massachusetts in federal court. Publically opposing H.T.’s wishes in court could become a public relations disaster for Martha’s campaign. Recently, the attorney general’s office has become outspoken against Jamie’s attempt to gain visitation rights, while arguing that the case could be settled in family court where the legal conflict began.

“We do not believe that this convicted rapist should be allowed visitation rights to this child,” Brad Puffer, spokesman for the attorney general’s office told me last Monday. “We are currently in the process of responding to the complaint to ensure that a proper legal process is followed while respecting the victim’s rights.”

Later, I spoke to H.T.’s attorney, Wendy Murphy, a professor at New England Law School. Over the phone, Wendy said she was determined to fight for her client but concerned the state law would make it difficult for her to prevent Jamie from seeing the child. “There’s a body of law that relates to the family court’s question that all but guarantees that the man will succeed,” she said.

Wendy's right. Massachusetts is merely one of 31 states that do not have laws precluding men from seeking custody for children born as a result of rape. For that reason, this particular case bears larger significance for Wendy and her client—it’s indicative of a predominant attitude towards rape in the United States, one which Wendy considers a larger systemic problem.

“Rape is what I would call the ugly stepsister. As crime goes, it’s really always been at the bottom of the ladder of crimes we care about,” she said. “We’re dealing with a social problem that has never gotten the respect it deserves, in part because the bodies of women have never been protected in a way that the law should protect women’s bodies.”

The statistics bolster Murphy’s points—the Centers for Disease Control & Prevention reports that one in six women in the United States have experienced an attempted rape or rape, and rape has been called the most underreported violent crime in America.

On Friday, Wendy said the attorney general's office filed a motion to dismiss the case. Initially, there was no explanation for why the motion was filed, and it’s still unknown whether or not a judge will grant it. The attorney general's office has told VICE they would let us know the outcome of their decision, but after many brief conversations with a spokesperson, they have yet to provide us with the information.

Yesterday, Wendy sent VICE court documents stating the attorney general filed the motion because “this Court lacks jurisdiction to review the judgments and orders entered in the challenged state court proceedings, and this Court should abstain from interfering in any pending state court proceedings.” 

If the case is dismissed entirely and not refiled successfully in another court, this could become an example of a woman falling victim to an egregiously ill-conceived system of laws, which failed to protect her from the very man who did her devastating harm.

Despite the setbacks, Wendy believes her client may still win the case. “I think we [will] easily win on all counts,” she said.

@GideonResnick

More about the justice system's failures: 

We Spoke to Innocent Men Who Were Stopped and Frisked

These Nonviolent Female Prisoners Have Been Rotting in Prison for the Last Decade

Why Doesn't the Justice System Take Rape Cases Seriously

 

I Grew Up in a Trailer Park in the Everglades

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Photos courtesy of the author

How I ended up growing up in a trailer park in the Everglades is still a bit of a mystery to me. In 1998, my family moved from Davie, a wealthy cowboy themed suburb outside Fort Lauderdale, to Holly Lake, a trailer park in the middle of the Everglades. From what our parents told us, our financial crisis was the result of a business investment gone awry. After my dad’s mother passed away, he put all of his inheritance into a chain of family-friendly bar/restaurants called Hub’s Pubs. This ended up being a very bad decision, because his partner ran away with all our money before Hub’s Pubs ever opened. (I later found out that my dad came across this venture in an obscure back page newspaper ad.)

Holly Lake was west of US 27—it was about as far west as you could go before running into the swamp. Our new home was on the other side of that highway, where the railroad track and the power lines ran through the reeds, a reverse oasis of highly flammable tin boxes nestled around a manmade lake.

For my sister, the move from our sprawling five-bedroom ranch home to a three-bedroom singlewide was unbearably humiliating.  As an eighth grader, she took up violin after school just so she could take the late bus and avoid being followed home listening to her classmates’ jeers. Although I was only in the third grade, I gathered we’d hit a rough patch, but starting our new life in Holly Lake felt sort of like an adventure, like we were the Swiss Family Robinson, shipwrecked at the end of the universe. 

We attended Chapel Trail (the best school in the everglades), had a boat ramp, a baseball diamond, a community center, basketball and racquetball courts, two swimming pools, and our own firehouse, because it can take less than five minutes for the average 60-by-12-foot mobile home to become engulfed in flames. 

Best of all we had Arnold’s—a smoke-filled convenience store with VHS rentals, a mini bowling alley, and trailer park kids’ daily necessities: beer, condoms, boiled peanuts, and candy cigarettes. 

Our neighbors added to the entertainment. One morning, someone knocked on our front door before school. I answered the door and found a bare-chested boy holding out a glass for some milk. When I “ran away” after my mom returned my puppy to the pound, I found a neighbor on the sidewalk and cried into her nightgown. On the flip side, I once heard a neighbor tell my dad that a local boy bludgeoned his father to death with a baseball bat.

Three years later, I left these wonderful swampland weirdoes. My father worked his way up in sales at a thriving swimming pool remodeling company, and my mom managed a small coin laundromat they’d purchased—we had enough money to move to Plantation, a western suburb of Greater Fort Lauderdale whose motto was “The Grass is Greener.” Plantation was filled was soccer moms who drove Range Rovers and parked in sprawling driveways, neatly separated from the lower-income families who populated the C-rated public schools. We also lived across the street from the Sawgrass Mills Mall, Florida's second largest tourist attractions. I haven’t been back to Holly Lake in over ten years, but I often return to the trailer park in my dreams, walking around the trailers and staring at Arnold’s and the swamplands all by myself.

One evening after work, I decided to make my dreams a reality. I wanted to see if the grass really was greener. And I wanted to stock up on candy cigarettes from Arnold’s.

I drove northwest on US 27 from Miami for about 30 miles, skirting the western fringes of Hialeah until ornate motel facades and check cashing stores gave way to cow pastures and hundreds of trucks cutting their way up the wetlands. It was overcast when I finally crossed over the other side of US 27 into my old neighborhood. The firehouse at the entrance looked like it hadn’t been used in years, and the baseball diamond was all grown over with weeds. Still, it was sort of charming. An American flag ruffled lamely on a pole across the field, Arnold’s was now called A.J.’s, and I was delighted to find that the sign on the door said they were open.

A kid wearing gauges and a backwards hat greeted me with a friendly hello as I walked in and began to look around. It seemed brighter inside, cleaner, and emptier—no smoke. Behind a new deli counter, a middle-aged woman flipped chunks of chicken over a cheap looking grill. The boy made his way back behind the counter. His name was Andrew. He was 18 and well spoken, with striking blue eyes and a kind face. He had lived in Holly Lake with his mom for the last 15 years, but he’d only been working at A.J.’s for a week. His mom has had cancer and four strokes; he said he was saving up so he can help take care of his mom before heading to University of Central Florida on a full ride to study music. 

“She’s a really strong woman, and a great person, but she hasn’t always made the best choices for her kids,” he told me, unafraid to look me in the eyes. His eyes were so blue—his manner of speaking so calm and direct—he reminded me a little of me when I lived in the trailer park. 

When I asked him how things have changed around the neighborhood, he painted a somewhat typical picture of a tightknit community with its share of problems: Four kids under the age of 15 had just been arrested for vandalizing a community building with graffiti, and there were a few drug houses getting raided on the regular. He called over Donna from the deli counter to see if she could provide any insight. She happened to be the mother of the two new owners, Anthony and Joe. Arnold’s had been closed and in disrepair for the last eight years until Joe, a chef, and Anthony, a professional bowler, decided to take it over and reopen the store last October.

“It’s kind of like the match made in heaven here,” Donna told me. “We’re getting the lanes resurfaced come Monday, and after we’re done, we’re gonna have the United States Bowling Congress come in and certify the lanes—and then we’re gonna have leagues. We’re trying to give the kids fun things to do, and the adults too.”

Just then, a grisly man with a dark, balding mullet and a ponytail walked in.

“You got any crazy stories for us, Petey?” Donna asked.

“Who’s asking?” he said. “You mean like the kids shooting the old ladies? One old lady got shot from across the lake. She was watching TV about 2:30 AM and, all of a sudden—BOOM. She got shot in her shoulder. They saw her in there, and they were just like, ‘Dad, can I hit that old lady?’ I tell you, the kid that did it, I think he’s dead. I think he committed suicide just recently. Kids love to smoke dope in empty houses,” he concluded. He told me I looked like a younger version of one of his favorite actresses, but he couldn’t remember the name. I asked if I could take his picture, and he said no, because he was wanted in five different states.

As I thanked them for chatting with me, Donna let me in on the first “Get to Know Your Neighbor” party they’ll be throwing this October, to celebrate their anniversary. “Come by. Check out the new lanes,” she said. “You’ve gotta try Joey’s food.” I told her maybe I would.

After I left A.J.’s, I drove around the neighborhood. I pulled up to a lot where all that was left was a raised concrete foundation overlooking the lake. I stood on top of the concrete and thought about everything I had seen in Holly Lake as a kid. Later, driving on Highway 27 back towards massive manicured lawns and matching barrel tiled roofs, I remembered something Donna had said:  “We’ve all been through our struggles here.”

I wondered if I was driving away from the realest place I’ve ever known. 

@FalynRose

More stories about Florida: 

Meet the Bad Moms Club 

The Magic Kingdom Is Creepy

Welcome to Christmas, Florida

Poor-Man's Speed: Coming of Age in Wigan's Anarchic Northern Soul Scene

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Me on the dancefloor at Mr M's, at the Fourth Anniversary allnighter, September 1977. Photo courtesy of Julie Bennett.

One Saturday night ­in 1975, I met my friend at a shop in Manchester that would, for certain, sell you Bronchipax: ephedrine capsules, the poor-man’s speed, banned now but sold without prescription back then.

We bought a packet each and swallowed the lot with tonic water: eight times the maximum adult dose. But what did we care about the adult dose? We were 15, and about to set off for the greatest dance club in the world.

We reached Wigan Casino around midnight with my mate’s cousin who was a “face” on the Northern Soul scene. That got us into a café nearby, packed—not with soul boys as I expected—but with music journalists from London, cool Italians in micro-sunglasses, American vinyl collectors and other global bohemians.

But I cared nothing for them. I shoved my way, like everybody else, through the door to the Casino and onto its vast, sprung maple dancefloor. There, in a steam-bath humidity that reeked of Brut, sweat and cigarettes, I executed spins and back-flips until I dropped—which was about half past four, doubled up with stomach cramps from the Bronchipax.

By 8 AM, I had recovered to the point where the following memory could imprint itself onto my brain: a kid with a quiff, in a leather jacket, doing long, slow spins through a shaft of sunlight. It was an endless, graceful movement, hands wedged to his hips, eyes fixed to a space beyond the horizon. He could still taste the Bronchipax. He was already hooked on Northern Soul.

It’s the first law of sociology that all youth subcultures eventually come back. Northern Soul’s latest karmic go-around involves very young kids from Wigan—aged 15 to 18—not only dancing to rare vinyl but wearing the full outfit: wide trousers and white socks copied from Tony Palmer’s 1977 documentary Wigan Casino.

But the second law of sociology is cruel: all members of revived subcultures are doomed to run into people who’ve survived the original thing and have kept it going underground, defiantly wearing the fashion even as the waistbands have to be let out.

So today’s 15-year-olds are outnumbered by thousands of oldsters from the 1970s still populating the allnighters that take place in the small halls of northern Britain, grumpily complaining about the no-talc rules on the dancefloor.

I left the original scene in around 1979 because the music—and the fashion—seemed stuck in a timewarp even then. So I wasn’t hugely encouraged to see the crowd at the Nuneaton Allnighter this August: fellow 50-somethings dressed in a variety of vintage clothing styles, one or two on walking sticks.


Inside Wigan Casino. Photo courtesy of Dave Molloy.

Amazingly, the thrill of the music seemed to smooth out all potential points of friction between the oldsters and the Spotify generation kids. And in any case, both scenes—revival and survival—are about to gain impetus from Elaine Constantine’s upcoming feature film, Northern Soul.

In fact the revival has partly happened because of the film. Constantine trained upwards of 60 young actors and extras to do the dance style. And the teenagers got so good at it that for some it became a way of life. The attraction for them is the same as it was for us.

“It’s just life!” says Lauren Fitzpatrick, who’s been leaping into the air to touch her toes in a flying splits move. “The thing I love when I’m dancing is when I see other people. I just feel like we’re all connected. If I wanted to go clubbing... well, the music’s just shit and the people, they’re starting fights and that. At a Northern Soul night it’s like a family.”

Picture the scene: the first Wigan allnighter opens on 23 September, 1973 amid a world of bleakness that even the brown-stained TV archive cannot do justice to.

The country is spiralling into social unrest. Not just the strikes and power cuts but the ordinary chaos that surrounds us: sports violence, knifings, terrorism, violent teachers, and paedophile priests. To alleviate the tension there is something called pop music, spoon-fed to you via “the charts” by, among others, a guy called Jimmy Savile.

In a handful of clubs the evolutionary process that quietly morphed late-stage mods into suede-heads and then soul boys is underway. At the age of 14, it explodes into my life at a youth club in Leigh.

Everybody is dancing like zombies, Top of The Pops style, when suddenly they put a record on that clears the floor. For a good 12 bars it’s just a black guy singing a capella; a cracked voice, soaring through a melismatic story of lost-girlfriend grief.

And then it cranks into rhythm: it’s Harold Melvin and the Blue Notes singing “Get Out (And Let Me Cry).”

And suddenly, in the empty space, three boys start dancing: not like zombies but like acrobats. And a crowd forms as everybody watches them spin, do drop kicks, the splits—all the time twisting their feet this weird, sideways, mesmerising step.

It was just three boys. But by the next week—after a long time spent in front of a full-length mirror—there were four.

At this point I had no idea what the music was. It sounded like Motown, only rougher; the bass was louder and the emotions more raw. Soon I learned to obsess about obscure labels – like Okeh, Ric-Tic, Mala and Cameo Parkway—and about the different pharmaceutical types of speed. Even if you’d never taken any you couldn’t avoid the brand names—Riker, Filon, SKF: they were tattooed all over people’s arms and, for the really committed, necks.

I’m clearer now what makes a Northern Soul record. The term itself was coined by writer Dave Godin in 1970, when he noticed northern football fans in his London record shop asking for stuff nobody had heard of.

This was already the music of a time past: the demo tracks of one-hit wonders, the short-run vinyl pressings of local singers, sold out of suitcases as they toured the soul clubs of industrial America. Most were made between 1965 and 1971—the golden age of soul before Motown moved to LA.

What had made most of these tracks flop was probably the very existence of Motown. The entire operation – we still called it Tamla – was there to commercialise black music, to create hits with strings, saccharine harmonies and choreographed dance routines. Paradoxically, much of this was done to make soul acceptable to a white audience. But the white audience in Wigan wanted different.

If you take three Northern Soul masterpieces—Frankie Karl’s “You Should’o Held On”, Rita Da Costa’s “Don’t Bring Me Down”, or The Precisions’ “If This Is Love”—you can hear what made them different to commercialised soul.

There’s the persistent use of the major seventh as a harmony chord; the guttural solo voice (both Frankie Karl and Billy Prince, lead singer of the Precisions, had been gospel singers); the unscripted call/response patterns of the backing groups; above all the mixture of pathos with emotional honesty and hope in the lyrics.


Dancers gather outside Wigan Casino. Photo courtesy of Gill Cousins.

The DJ Richard Searling described it as “deep soul with a dance beat,” but there are just as many traces of doo-wop, jazz (Da Costa was a jazz diva) and above all gospel. The sheer lack of emotional restraint is a straight lift from African-American chapel singing, and for me makes “gospel on the subject of sex” a better description.

Once the Northern Soul scene took off, Searling, together with other pioneer DJs, would comb through warehouses in the USA in search of mint copies of deleted 45s, bringing them back in small enough quantities to create scarcity. Searling recalls:

“In Philadelphia there's a warehouse called House of Sounds and it's about the size of a cotton mill. I was left there in the morning, picked up at night, with the noise of the rats in the warehouse scurrying around; no radio for company just sandwiches for lunch.

“I found one copy of a record by Johnny Moore called 'Walk Like A Man' that was snapped in half. And when I got back to the UK I found out there was just one other copy in circulation—owned by a guy who’d got there before me. He said, ‘There were two but I snapped the other one so I could have the only copy.’”

If this sounds like the behaviour of crazy obsessives, that is what Northern Soul did to you. And to my 14-year-old self it made not just the music of Abba, Status Quo, Bowie, Roxy Music but also the Jackson Five and the Three Degrees sound like what it was: commercialised shit.

Because there was no internet, no YouTube, no carefully researched discographies – and because DJs like Searling purposely disguised the identities of records to keep them priceless – if you wanted to hear the music you had to go. And that meant going to Wigan.


Me, my mate Kev, and my Mini, outside Wigan Casino in 1977.

By 1977 I had a regular place on the dancefloor at Wigan Casino. Not at the front among the elite but at the side. When you meet people who went to the Casino the first thing they always do is draw an imaginary plan of the venue in the air and ask: “Which part of the dancefloor did you dance on?”

Constantine's film shows people taking handfuls of speed capsules, but that wasn't my experience. Any contact with speed dealers then was expensive and dangerous: the scene was crawling with plainclothes drug squad. In the early 70s the soul scene had been fuelled by pharmaceutical speed, stolen from chemist shops. But as drugs were withdrawn even from prescription, and the shops made more secure, “backstreet” amphetamine sulphate powder came onto the market.

Even in that short time I saw people destroyed by it: having to crush it and inject it to get the same buzz they were getting off three capsules a year before. In soul culture there had been an explicit and deep hatred of the drug paraphernalia of the rock scene—the syringes and the junkie lifestyle were as detestable as kaftans and patchouli perfume.

But by the end, you could always see “works” on the floor in the toilets at Wigan, and blood on the walls. Since the water taps were always broken there were lurid stories about people cranking up with water out of the toilets, or from the puddles outside.

And there were some tough bastards at Wigan. Elaine Constantine found some of them for her book-of-the-movie (Northern Soul: An Illustrated History, Virgin 2013). Chris Brick, who would do 30 months in jail for running a backstreet sulphate operation, recalls:

“People were bringing the chemist with them to the allnighter. There was a lot of anarchy in this. This is not some fabricated punk rock anarchy that was orchestrated down the King’s Road. I mean we were really involved in anarchy here.”

And though I was keen on anarchy, I was also quite keen on English Lit, and they didn’t offer it at A-Level in youth offender jails back then. I mostly attended Wigan armed only with ProPlus and dextrose tablets.

Even without speed you were able to experience the massive euphoria that was the defining atmosphere about an allnighter. I am convinced it was the product of the collective empathy that took place on the dancefloor, and not just the drugs. You could feel it kicking in outside before the Casino opened, in the two hours after midnight: people became tense, elated, subconsciously connected.

I might be the only person who’s experienced both Wigan and, say the Taksim Square occupation in Istanbul this year, so this is hard to verify: but I think these very different atmospheres shared something in common. There was something overtly rebellious and subconsciously political about Wigan. Like with a riot, or an occupation, you could tell immediately, through eye contact, who was feeling the buzz.

What we were doing, back then, was rewriting the rules of being white and working class. We knew exactly what it meant to dance to black music in the era of the National Front and the racist standup comedian. Ours was a rebellion against pub culture, shit music and leery sexist nightclubs. Our weapon was obscure vinyl, made by black kids nobody had ever heard of.

Northern Soul dancing was, of course, a male thing. There were superb female dancers, but the atmosphere on the dancefloor was male and we outnumbered the girls maybe four-to-one. Despite all the muscle and flesh on show it was not homo-erotic; but you laid your emotions viscerally bare. Elaine Constantine describes the shock this caused, at a youth club in Bury in the mid-70s:

“I saw these lads, older lads from school, who would never show any emotion, were suddenly in this dramatic situation where they were a spectacle, and they didn’t give a shit. I said to my cousin: what’s this? She said, ‘It’s Northern Soul!’”


Me with then girlfriend Julie Bennett at the Ritz Alldayer in Manchester, summer 1977. Photo courtesy of Julie Bennett.

To mark the 40th anniversary my BBC producer has persuaded me to dance, on camera. Fran Franklin, who first went to Wigan the same year as me, and has been a dance adviser on the film, has been drafted in to help.

The daughter of an African-American airman, Fran was one of maybe two dozen black regulars at Wigan. I don’t recognize her when we first meet, but I do recognise the Afro she used to wear, when I see her photos from the time.

I thought I would still have muscle memory of the dance movements but once she gets me going it’s clear that I am missing a step out of the basic pattern. I can spin, though. But the results of attempting to do a backdrop I am hoping will be left on the cutting room floor. It doesn’t help my confidence that Fran’s key instruction to the 16-year-olds in the film has been “dance like your granny”.

We dance to Dobie Gray’s “Out On The Floor”—and even after just two minutes, 30 seconds I realise why so much speed went down on the original scene: my heart rate’s knocking against its aerobic maximum.

I ask Fran what did it feel like to be black among these poor, white, working-class kids spoon-fed racism on TV and by the workplace joke-culture? Her answer tells the whole story of what’s happened inbetween:

“For me it was like: ‘I fit in!’ I’ve got a family. Every single person I ever met on the scene felt like my brother or my sister. We went through good times, lost people, but came together at the end of it, as one.”

Northern Soul was not some isolated cultural quirk. It was the crest of a wave of working-class culture: rising literacy, social mobility and solidarity. We had no idea all this was about to be destroyed—by mass unemployment, the criminalisation of poor communities and industrial decline. But I think we sensed we were at the high point of something.

In the 1977 documentary, the key character, Dave Withers, says that if the Casino closed, “it’d be instant nostalgia; I’d be looking back for the rest of my life”. And after that documentary came out you began to get a meme of sadness and regret in the some tracks that became popular on the scene. “Time Will Pass You By,” “It’s Not The Same,” “It’ll Never Be Over For Me”… these are the tracks old soulies use now to cover montages of their photos from way back, on YouTube. These are the tracks whose titles people get tattoed on their forearms, or specify for their funerals.

But the nostalgia was already there on the soul scene by the late 70s because—faced with a political onslaught that was about to destroy working-class self-respect and culture—it had no new musical resources to draw on.

A second dancefloor opened up inside the Casino, called Mr M’s and dedicated to playing “oldies”—that is, to ignoring the influence of funk and disco on black music. Though the only picture I have of me dancing at Wigan shows me on the floor at M’s, musically I was on the other side.

If I could only grab one soul record from a burning house it would be Mel Britt’s “She’ll Come Running Back,” recorded in 1972 and already infused with the musical ingredients of funk: syncopation and a static chord progression.

Eventually I drifted away from the scene because it did not respond to the social landslide that began in 1979: punk, new wave, funk and hip-hop did.

But Northern Soul’s legacy was to give birth to the modern dance club. When the rave scene started in the 1980s, ex-Northern Soul DJs (and drug dealers) recognized it as a kind of second coming. And today if you want to experience some of the mania, working-classness and speed-enhanced goodwill, a Gabber night might come close, although there’s a deathly absence of humanity inside the music.

There used to be a saying on the Northern scene: “It’s all about the music.” And I think that’s what abides. Today I see it as an unconscious act of communication, across time and space, from a generation of confident, educated, politicised black people in 60s America to a rising generation of white working-class kids in 70s Britain.

It said: our hopes and communities will soon be smashed, and so will yours. But while it lasts let’s have some honesty and some beauty and some fleeting, euphoric friendships amid a room full of strangers.

That’s why for me Northern Soul is not about nostalgia for the past. It’s nostalgia for life as it could be lived in the future, if people in towns like Wigan and Detroit ever throw off all the poverty and criminalisation that got imposed on them in the decades inbetween.

Follow Paul on Twitter: @paulmasonnews

More dance:

WATCH – Donk

WATCH – Big Night Out: The Gabber Night

Things That Need to Disappear from Dancefloors Forever


What Do Women Who Wear the Niqab Think of the Niqab Debate?

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A Muslim woman wearing a niqab in London. (Photo via)

While Muslim women wearing niqabs in Britain might be a constant bugbear for EDL types, it's generally not something the rest of the population are particularly concerned about. But once every couple of years, a "niqabi" demands the right to keep wearing the veil in a situation where other people think it shouldn't be worn, so it becomes a Big Deal for a while and the media kick up a grand, preachy fuss until it all blows over.

The past week-and-a-bit has been one of those periods, thanks to two incidents. First, Birmingham Metropolitan College told a prospective student that it didn't allow the wearing of niqabs on campus for security reasons, only to perform a hasty U-turn following a storm of national controversy. Then a judge at Blackfriars Crown Court ruled that Muslim women giving evidence must remove their veil. Before long, Nick Clegg was hinting at a ban on niqabs in the classroom and columnists were going into op-ed overdrive.

It's a contentious debate, but whether it's non-Muslims telling everyone that it's fine to wear a niqab, Muslims telling everyone that it's not fine to wear a niqab or non-Muslims castigating their fellow non-Muslims for not castigating the niqab enough, it's a debate that hasn't had a lot of input from the women who actually wear the veil. With that in mind, we thought we'd talk to some of those women and find out their thoughts on the whole niqab debate.

Siama Ahmed, 35, a teacher and blogger from Oxfordshire.

VICE: What do make of the recent controversy surrounding the wearing of niqabs in Britain?
Siama Ahmed: My personal opinion about the recent [Blackfriars] court case is that it shouldn't have been an issue. In Islamic law, if a judge asks you to remove your veil, you should remove it. And the judge correctly asked her to remove it. I can only assume that she is ignorant of the fact that she should have taken it off.

Do you wear you niqab all the time?
No. I have two small children and I don't want them to feel the hostility of me wearing it from others. But if I'm in the Middle East I will wear it, or if I’m in a gathering where the majority of people present are Muslims – but only if people aren't uncomfortable with me wearing it. So the main thing is I'm not making people feel uncomfortable. I think the bad of wearing it outweighs the good of wearing it [in everyday public life]. In the Middle East, it's not normal for men and women to have eye contact. But in this culture, eye contact is important.

Why do you personally wear it?
In an ideal world, if we didn't have any Islamophobia, I would consider wearing it all the, time because it's really special to me. Part of the problem is that this country is deprived of spirituality, so it’s hard to explain why wearing the niqab is important.

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Na’ima Robert, 36, is a British convert to Islam, author and magazine editor.

How does the niqab affect your day-to-day life?
Na'ima Robert: As an author and magazine publisher, I haven't found that the niqab has held me back. As an individual, I am outgoing, adventurous and ambitious – the niqab hasn’t changed that.

So people not being able to see your face hasn't changed anything?
It changes the way some people respond to me, as they're initially disconcerted by my face covering. But I just work extra hard on those ones and grin like mad so that they can see my eyes smiling. But it’s more one’s demeanour that puts people at ease, isn’t it? After all, there are people who are "normally" dressed whose body language or attitudes are intimidating. A person wearing a niqab doesn’t have the same advantage as someone whose face is visible, I admit that, but you could say that someone with tattoos or piercings or an unconventional haircut is similarly disadvantaged, couldn’t you?

I guess so. What do you think of the idea that it's inappropriate to wear the niqab in some situations, like in court or if you're teaching children?
As a teacher and as a Muslim, I would like to know that I am not disadvantaging my students in any way. If my covering my face is clearly doing that, I will do one of two things: reconsider my decision to cover, or reconsider my position. That being said, I have conducted workshops in schools with my face covered, but I made sure to let my personality shine through so that I could engage the kids. And I would find a way to "flash" the girls, if possible. But seriously, the question is this: who gets to decide when wearing the niqab is appropriate or not?

What do you think of Muslim women who don't wear it?
I think they’re missing out! No, really, I don’t think anything of them – they are free to choose their path to God, you know? One thing I have learned over the years is to cultivate humility.

What do you think of those who are freaked out by not being able to see your face?
As a writer, it's my job to empathise, so of course I get it. Look at the image of masks in our culture: Darth Vader, ninjas, robbers, those with something to hide – it's all overwhelmingly negative. Add that to the fact that images of veiled Muslim women have been used to illustrate the alleged oppression of women in the Muslim world from the time of the Orientalists to today’s front pages. It’s hard, I tell you, for a niqabi out there.


Soumaya Bezgrari, 34, full-time mum from Camberwell, London.

Do you feel safe wearing the niqab?
Soumaya Bezgrari: I do get a lot of name-calling. It's only in east London that I feel safe. But I feel things are going to get worse – the situation will get heated. I definitely think more women are wearing the Niqab these days. I think it’s because Muslims are becoming more religions.

How long have you been wearing the niqab?
For six to seven years. I was born and raised and educated here, with a university degree.

What do you think of the argument that it's oppressive?
It was my choice to wear the niqab. It’s not because my husband makes me do it – not at all. I don't mind people asking me, Why do you wear that veil?" But people don't.

Why do you wear it?
The niqab protects me – I don't get the builders whistling at me or looking at me inappropriately. With the niqab, they can't harass you. They might shout verbal comments, but I deal with it. There are thousands who wear the niqab – are you telling me all of them have been oppressed into wearing it by their husbands?

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Tajminah, 20, is a receptionist and administrator at the East London Mosque, east London.

Have you received any abuse for wearing the niqab on the street?
The first day I wore it, we went to Goodmayes in Essex, which is a majority white area. There were these white men – I’d say around 20 years old – and they flipped their middle fingers at us, just shouting and swearing.

Why do you think they did that?
I think the main argument people use is that we haven’t tried and don’t try to integrate, but I still live my life as a member of society.

What do you think of the argument that the niqab is oppressive?
Most of the time, the misconception is that your husband forces you to wear it – or male relatives, like your dad and brothers, etc – but I'm not married and I don’t have any brothers in my family. I’m from a family of sisters and my parents are divorced, so my dad doesn’t really have much of an influence in my life. I’m the youngest in my family and the only one who wears a niqab. I chose the niqab for myself.

When did you start wearing it?
I started wearing it last year during Ramadan. I always wanted to wear it. I always hesitated to wear it and I used to ask my friend who wears it how it feels. I didn’t go into it blindly.

Do people often stray away from wearing it, or do most people stick with it, do you know?
I think stories of people getting attacked may put people off wearing it. After the Woolwich attack, one of my friends got attacked by a white man. She was on her way to college and the man ripped off her niqab and started terrorising her outside her house. That is scary for young niqabis. In this society, you’re allowed to practice your faith freely, so why should our religious right be taken away?

More about Muslim modesty:

I Walked Around in a Burqa All Day

The Eyes Have It

Unveiled - Inside the Homes and Lives of Saudi Women

Bob Guccione's Erotic Art from the 19th Century

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The super special September issue of VICE was exclusively culled from the archives of Bob Guccione Sr.—the legendary magazine publisher who built a media empire that started with Penthouse. This portion of the issue features erotic artwork previously owned by Bob Guccione.

For more previously unpublished documents visit the Guccione Archives Issue pageFor even more unpublished archival material, please visit The Guccione Collection website, which is devoted to illuminating all the varied corners of Bob's legacy and creating new content in the spirit of the Guccione empire.

Mark McNairy's Clothes Are Loud So He Doesn't Have to Be

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Mark McNairy in his showroom. All photos by Conor Lamb. 

A long line of young people, clad in jerseys and button down shirts, stretched outside the doors of Eyebeam down West 21st Street in Manhattan in anticipation of the Mark McNairy New Amsterdam runway show. Instead of being backstage, making the final touches on his collection, Mark was outside , casually smoking a cigarette in what looked like a Hanes white T-shirt and a pair of dark blue jeans. If I hadn’t seen him before, I might’ve confused him for one of the eager fanboys in line—not the designer himself.

The Backstreet Boys played in the background as attendees entered the repurposed art center and looked for their seats, while men with metal pails walked around serving up ice cold Heineken. Once everyone was settled and sufficiently buzzed, designer Greg Chapman kicked off the spring/summer 2014 presentation by marching down the down the runway sipping a longneck beer and holding an empty paint can, clad in a navy pant and blazer with a pair of classic-style saddle shoes with an aqua bottom. The beer guzzling set the tone for McNairy’s show, which unabashedly had no fucks to give.

Following shortly after Greg was street style veteran, Nick Wooster, who rocked a pair of zebra cargo shorts matched with a cobalt blazer. Mark’s daughter Daisy, was a highlight of the show, one-upping Greg’s boozing by flashing the crowd with a switchblade. And rap legend Pusha T was the surprise ending to the show, strutting down the catwalk with a T-shirt emblazoned with the words “Hey, Hey, My, MY, Camouflage Will Never Die”—a notion Mark made clear with his collection. In addition to the camo covered menswear were military and sportswear inspired pieces splattered with polka dots, florals, rubber duckies, and ironic slogans.


The Mark McNairy New Amsterdam runway show for spring 2014. From the left to the right: Nick Wooster, Daisy McNairy, and Pusha T.

Upon exiting the show, cans of Cheerwine imported from Mark’s home state of North Carolina were set out for the taking. With such attention to detail—the drinks, the props, the high profile yet unconventional models—it was hard for me to believe that Mark hadn’t been obsessively preparing for his show when I met him for the first time just three weeks earlier.

My interview with Mark took place a month before fashion week, which is a time when most designers are scrambling to finalize their collections. However, Mark didn’t seemed phased in the slightest. Much like his designs, his way of doing things isn’t ordinary. His creative process is that he doesn’t have one. He doesn’t make a collection—instead, he simply puts together the things he likes. The energetic patterns he uses like the petite floral and ikat gingham are just things he happens to find. As for the graphics, he has no fucking idea how he comes up with those. 

Maybe it is this nonchalant brilliance that has kept him at the forefront of the fashion game since before I was born. Mark has designed for companies like J. Press and Woolwrich Woolen Mills and his own line Mark McNairy New Amsterdam, in addition to numerous collaborations with brands like adidas and Billionaire Boys Club.

With a nickname like "McNasty," I wasn’t sure what I was getting myself into when I met the man for a sit down. I didn’t want to waste much time chatting about his design process, considering he thought a lot of that stuff was bullshit. Instead I wanted to know how someone like Mark, became such a relevant and sometimes controversial designer.

His showroom was in an old building in the Manhattan’s Meatpacking District, built like a castle with stonewalls and dark intricate woodwork. It seemed like the perfect place to house his reinterpreted version of classic clothing. He entered the room in almost the exact outfit I would see him sporting at his fashion show a few weeks later.

Mark is a man of few words. He speaks with a light southern twang and a soft tone that was barely audible from where I was sitting on the couch adjacent to him. His icy demeanor was counterintuitive for a designer who adorns his garments with smiley faces and is praised for using crazy colors and loud prints. He wasn’t willing to give up much, but he did open up about how he hates Brooklyn and his years as a record collector. Here’s what he had to say:


A close up on one of Mark's latest garments in his studio. 

VICE: So you grew up in North Carolina, what was that like?
Mark McNairy: Very regular.

How did you get into fashion living there?
There is no fashion. There wasn’t at that point. Everything was traditional menswear. My intro to clothing started with G.I. Joe when I was a kid and then it kind of turned into athletic apparel, when I started working at a sporting goods store.

Was anyone in your family into fashion?
No. It came from music and movies. I was always into all kinds of music.  My music tastes are like my clothing—a mish-mash of everything.

So you were working at a sporting goods store. What were you wearing at that time?
When I was in middle school, in the mid-70s, I was printing my own rock n’ roll T-shirts in art class. I spent all my money on records. I guess in high school I turned to vintage clothing. There was nowhere cool to shop, so the natural thing to do was to go to thrift shops.

What were you looking for when you went thrifting?
Very preppy things like vintage Brooks Brothers shirts and military khakis. Basically, what I wear today.

Do you still enjoy thrifting?
Not as much as I used to. I never thought I would say that. Usually when I would take a vacation to another city that would be the first place I would go. But I have so much shit now, and I have seen so much stuff. I still go to the flea market on Saturdays, but I am not as obsessed about thrifting as I once was. I used to like shopping, but now I don’t give a crap.


A sharp pair of Mark McNairy New Amsterdam brogues inside of Mark's showroom. 

You’re known for putting your own flare ontp clothing, is that something you have always been doing?
That is kind of what I have done my whole career. I started in womenswear. There is no point in trying to create the perfect blue oxford button-down shirt because it already exists—Brooks Brothers. With my shoes, there was no point in trying to recreate the perfect country brogue shoe or boot because Trickers does it. My stuff has got to be a little different.

Some people say you are controversial. Do you think people have a hard time understanding your sense of humor?
For the most part, no—with the exception of a few uptight people who might not get it.

What influenced you to not take fashion seriously?
That has been my personality from the beginning. I am not sure. When you are a kid you obviously care what people think about you.

So now that you have your own line, can you be yourself?
I have had my own line my whole career and then I got the job at J. Press and everything was “no, no, no.” No one was willing to take a risk. I think that set the tone for me today—to do whatever the fuck I want. It wasn’t working at J. Press. They wanted me to bring in a new young customer, but they wouldn’t let me do what I wanted to do. What I do now is probably a reaction to that.

What have been some of the most rewarding collaborations you’ve done?
The ones I have made the most money on... That’s not true. Keds was my first collaboration. To have my name on a pair of Keds… I wore those when I was a kid, so that was really cool. I guess the adidas thing has got to be the most exciting, because when I was in junior high and working in the sporting goods store, I collected sneakers. I had about 200 sneakers lined-up around my room. The Jabar Lo were my favorite, which is why it was the first shoe I worked on with adidas.

There has been a lot of hype around your collaboration with BBC.
It has been awesome working with Pharrell. That is my favorite collaboration, because it is ongoing and we get to work together.

That aesthetic is different, what influenced that?
Well I have always liked BBC and Ice Cream. It is very fun and colorful, but my collection is more subdued. The Bee Line gives me the chance to take my aesthetic and go a little wacky.


Gorgeous printed suit in Mark McNairy's studio.

Are you into hip-hop?
Yes. I listened to early hip-hop in the 80s—like Sugarhill and the kind of stuff that influenced the Clash. It was the gangster rap that I never got into. It was the content that bothered me. It was all about me, me, me. That just didn’t appeal to me. My brother who is, very narrow-minded in terms of musical taste—he likes Brit-pop or whatever—told me about Kanye. I was like, “What the fuck are you talking about? No thanks.” But then I started listening to it and I was like “Woah.” Then I found out about all of the things I had been missing out on.

What are you listening to now?
Travi$ Scott is a new discovery. I like Jay Z’s new record. I like Kanye’s record. I can’t fucking wait for the Danny Brown record, the new Riff Raff record, and the Pusha T record—those are the three I am waiting for right now.

Do you still live in the city?
No. I live in Jersey.

Do you like it better out there?
Yes. I moved to New York to live in Manhattan. I hate Brooklyn. I have always hated Brooklyn.

Why is that?
I know now there are a lot of cool shops and restaurants, but I just don’t like it. Every time I go there I have a bad experience.

Do you design out of New Jersey?
I come to the city everyday to work. But, designing is coming up with ideas and that can happen anywhere. It could happen when I am at Wal-Mart.

Can you tell me about your Maseratis?
I like vintage. It is not Maseratis in general. I could give a rat’s ass about having a brand new Masareti. It’s about the time period, 1980-89. 

Why that time period?
The design. The Quattroporte was the first four-door sports car. I fell in love with that car. It started when I was graduating from high school. Then they came out with the Biturbo, which I couldn’t afford either. I went to the dealership and asked if I could test-drive the Biturbo and he was like, “Son, this is the type of car the boss drives.” I was like, “Fuck you, you fucking asshole.” Those are really the only cars I ever cared about. Over the past couple years I have been looking for them and found them.

Have you found the exact one that you wanted?
The first thing I bought was a red Biturbo. Then shortly after that I found a navy blue Quattroporte, which wasn’t in great shape. Then of course I found another one that looked exactly the same, but was in pristine condition, so I bought that one with the intention of getting rid of the first one. But the first one is a lot faster and louder and I couldn’t part with it. Then I got the idea that it was not worth putting money into it to restore it to it’s original condition, so I would just cover it in MultiCam. Which, I finally did. I was going to do it before and then my daughter wrecked the car and ripped the bumper off. 

So no more Maserati for your daughter?
She’s not driving those anymore.


Model backstage at the runway show. 

Is there anything else you collect?
Music still.

Do you still have your record collection?
No. In high school and college I had around 10,000 records, my dumbass moved them to NYC with my whole GQ collection. It was a really dumb thing to move to New York with 200 pounds of GQ magazines. I just kept adding to the record collection. I think I had like 20,000 when I finally let it go. I refused to deal with CDs when they first came out. The only thing I miss about records is the art. The album cover was part of the package, but now it’s so hard to read the credits on CDs and then when you buy an album on iTunes there are no credits.

Do you think your personal style is evolving?
The basis is set, but it is still going to change. Never say never. Except for Birkenstocks.

All photos by Conor Lamb. For more NYFW photos from him, check these out:

On the Street at New York Fashion Week

Fashion Lips

More men's fashion interviews from VICE:

Mishka's Fall 2013 Collection Video

The Evolution of Patrik Ervell 

The Romance Behind the Designs of Robert Geller

Moscow Is a Paradise - Part Two

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Sasha Mademuaselle's favorite city is Moscow, which isn't all that surprising given it's where she was born and raised. Sasha says that what she particularly loves about her hometown is "the freedom the youth have," which—considering the recent news about Putin viciously restricting freedoms for young people—was kind of surprising.   

Still, her photos are great, so we'll just excuse that last part as narrative license and enjoy all the naked people, dinosaurs, and creepy tattoos instead. 

Previously:

Moscow Is a Paradise - Part One

Does your town or city qualify for paradise status? Feel free to send us your pitches. We won't bite.

Other recent Paradises:

Atlanta / Oslo / Odessa / Bangkok / Venice Beach / Magaluf / London (part one) / London (part two) / Ayia Napa

A Mixed Martial Artist Takes on Monsanto

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A Mixed Martial Artist Takes on Monsanto

Syrian Rebels Are Killing Each Other for Control

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"Watch out—there are snipers on this street," warned the ISIS fighter as my driver stopped next to him and eight other heavily armed men who were preparing to head into battle. ISIS, or the Islamic State in Iraq and al-Sham, is an offshoot of al Qaeda currently operating on the battlegrounds of Syria.

He wouldn't have guessed it, but we were all trying to reach the same place—the front line outside the headquarters of yet another of the militant groups fighting in Syria, Ahfad al-Rasul. This organization is affiliated with the Free Syrian Army and had declared war on ISIS just a few hours earlier, for control of the provincial capital of Raqqa.

This was my third visit to the city in the four months since it had been "liberated," as Syrians tend to refer to areas where rebels have managed to expel government troops. The battle against Bashar al-Assad's forces in Raqqa had only lasted for about a week—a sharp contrast to the fighting in Aleppo, where gunfights and shelling have continued for over a year since the conflict began.

Once rebels take control of an area, it is now standard procedure for the regime to respond by bombarding it with indiscriminate air strikes in the hope of killing swathes of anti-Assad fighters. But back in April, just weeks after the liberation, cheerful residents seemed to greet the inevitable trail of destruction as a good thing—a sign of the progress the rebels were making.

Recently, however, the tension has risen considerably in Raqqa and the atmosphere has completely changed, as the rebel resistance continues to splinter, pitting many groups who once fought side by side against Assad against each other. The original celebration of freedom has given way to fear and uncertainty.   

A number of civil movements—both religious and secular—have also been trying to establish themselves in a bid to influence the future of the city and eventually the country. A group named Haqna, Arabic for “Our Right”, is one of the organizations leading the charge. Its logo, a hand making a V sign, the index finger marked with election ink, is spray-painted all over the city. Mostly made up of young local activists, Haqna is aiming to educate the population about their civil rights and the importance of elections.

Haqna has already met opposition from ISIS, however, and some of their members have been arrested recently for organizing protests against the militant Islamist group. After a demonstration outside their headquarters, one activist claimed to have seen someone filming them from inside the building. “They’re worse than the mukhabarat [the secret police]—they have eyes everywhere,” he said.

While members of ISIS currently occupy Raqqa’s governorate building—their black flag raised high in the main square outside—it is the independent Islamic movement of Ahrar al-Sham that plays the most significant role in the administration of the city. The group has been maintaining essential services such as garbage collection, water, and power supply. It also manages public bakeries and distributes food relief packages to thousands of families in the province, as well as promoting Islamic education through public lectures, workshops and religious and philosophical messages painted on public walls and posters across the city.

Which doesn't mean the group isn't fully engaged militarily. Though the city is controlled by the rebels, an area known as Division 17—around half a mile outside of the city—is still disputed, and Ahrar al-Sham’s fighters are the main rebel force in the battle. I asked one of their fighters when he expected Division 17 to be overtaken. He quickly replied, "I hope not any time soon," clearly aware that the regime would respond with air strikes, causing civilian casualties in the process.

I've had first-hand experience with that problem myself. At the end of Ramadan, I was woken by the sound of a fleet of ambulances screaming by—it turned out that Syrian army helicopters had dropped bombs on three different buildings, killing 13 people. Within a few hours, I found myself standing in the refrigerated room of a morgue with a father as he watched the bodies of six of his children being wrapped up in burial sheets.

The family waited until the evening for the funeral to avoid being caught in another attack, as funerals are often targeted by shelling from the regime. A rebel manning a heavy machine gun—or a "dushka," as they're colloquially named—on the back of a pick-up truck followed us for protection.

Three trucks carried the bodies, along with the mourners. All the way to the cemetery, I watched as a young boy sitting on the back of one of the trucks wept over the body of one of his six murdered siblings. Bystanders, mostly families who had been enjoying a cheerful Eid evening, stood silently and watched the procession pass, the palms of their hands held face-up in respect. A man announced the martyrs: "Shahid! Shahid! Six brothers and sisters!”

Once we arrived, there was no time for ceremony. The burial had to be carried out in a rush because of the site's proximity to Division 17 and our lights had to be turned out in case they attracted any remaining Syrian army officials in the region. A number of men helped hand over the bodies to the father as he stood inside the massive open grave. Others held their phones up to provide just enough light for the bodies to be laid in the right place. After a few minutes, we left.

Back at the HQ of Ahfad al-Rasul—which the group had established in Raqqa’s non-operational train station, where we'd been heading when we bumped into the ISIS fighters—I sat with Abu Mazin, the commander who'd just declared war against the militant Islamist group. His men had set up barricades all around the station.

Describing his group as a military organization with no political affiliations, Abu Mazin talked about a larger project that Ahfad al-Rasul is part of. "We are working to unify all FSA groups under the National Security Council," he told me. "In the future, we will form the Syrian National Army." Abu Mazin continued, assuring me that his group has no particular ideology: "We are only Syrians for all. We can’t keep Syria together as one if we want to keep a single ideology."

A local resident, Abu Mazin said the main reason that he declared war against ISIS is to fight for the release of a reported 1,500 prisoners currently being held by the group, about 500 of them FSA members. He also said that he had the support of Raqqa’s residents: "The people don’t want to be under the rule of ISIS," he explained.

The interview was kept short, as Abu Mazin and his men were somewhat preoccupied with the battle they'd started only a couple of days before. During that time, he claimed his men had killed or injured 40 ISIS members, while suffering only three injuries in their ranks. "This is my city. They cannot defeat us in an urban battle here," he told me.

Before leaving, I asked him if I could photograph his fighters on the frontline. "Sure, but please don’t show their faces," he responded. "They are afraid of ISIS."

The following day, before I left Raqqa, I thought of calling Abu Mazin to ask him a few more questions, but my phone rang before I could dial his number. A car bomb had hit his headquarters; killing him and all the men I had met on the previous day. "It’s over," said the activist who called to share the news. "ISIS won."

Follow Alice on Instagram: http://www.instagram.com/martinsalicea

More on Syria:

This Munitions Expert Says Assad Is Responsible for the Syria Chemical Attacks

What Would Western Intervention in Syria Look Like?

More and More Journalists Are Being Kidnapped in Syria

WATCH – Ground Zero: Syria

Checking in on the Chemical Valley

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The site of the Sun-Canadian pipeline clean-up. Photo by Wilson Plain.

It’s been a few months since I spent time on the Aamjiwnaang First Nations reserve in Sarnia, Ontario. You may remember watching the documentary we made about Aamjiwnaang, and their neighbouring proximity to 40% of Canada’s petrochemical industry—a squared 25km cluster known as the Chemical Valley that’s so toxic it drove the World Health Organization to give Sarnia the title of the worst air in all of Canada two years ago. Our documentary focused primarily on a benzene leak from January of this year, which came from the Shell refinery and directly affected the reserve’s daycare. It would be a mistake to think that leak was an isolated incident.

Since the film’s completion, an oil spill of 50 barrels from Imperial Oil in June—where eight litres made their way into “the county ditch”—is still being cleaned up. In addition, residents of Sarnia and Aamjiwnaang have been on high alert after a lightning strike caused increased flaring from the nearby Shell plant in Corunna this past Friday. The TransAlta plant was also in the news for a leak of carbon dioxide on the same day.

Beyond these troubling incidents, all throughout September, residents of Sarnia and Aamjiwnaang have been upset about a pipeline leak that ended up spilling 200 barrels of diesel into the ground—some of which ended up in the St. Clair River. Imagining a fuel leak in ‘barrels’ may be somewhat hard to fathom, until you calculate the number in litres, and realize that we’re talking about nearly 32,000 litres of spilled fuel partially polluting Sarnia’s water supply.

The diesel leaked from a 60-year old pipeline belonging to Sun-Canadian (55% of which is owned by Suncor and 45% by Shell) and it hadn’t been inspected in two years. Clearly these pipelines need to be watched more closely—and Sarnia’s mayor, Mike Bradley, agrees:

“It’s somewhat of a new world. There are many pipelines in North America and around the world that are 30, 40, 50, 60 years old… One of the concerns I have expressed to our officials is the regulation of industry. It appears to me as a layperson looking at this that I’m not sure it’s regulated as it should be—that a lot of the onus is left on the companies, on the maintenance and the reporting back. This only occurs, in many cases, when there’s an incident.”

One of the more shocking, recurring issues in Sarnia during emergency incidents like this is how the industry will put out incomplete or false information in the middle of a public furor. Whether this misinformation is spread through deliberate attempts to minimize the PR damage or if it’s simply a result of broken telephone, slow communication, and poor analysis is hard to tell—but when the pipeline leak was first announced, the Sarnia police declared that “no product entered the Saint Clair River,” a conclusion that would have been based on information given by Sun-Canadian, the pipeline owner, itself. When news broke that diesel had, in fact, reached the river a company spokesperson was quick to say there was “not a huge amount” of fuel in the water.

That disturbingly non-technical assessment of how much fuel ended up in the water makes it even harder to say how much of the 32,000 litres found its way into the St. Clair river, but there was enough fuel in the water for a noticeable oil sheen to be visible on the surface of the St. Clair. The river provides water for 170,000 people, so clearly these spills need to be dealt with in a much more timely fashion. And that was the exact point made by Peter Epp for the Sarnia Observer, who insists that the people of Sarnia and Aamjiwnaang "deserve better."

While the Sun-Canadian spill has been out in the open for nearly two weeks, the people of Aamjiwnaang and Sarnia have not received any answers on how the pipeline broke in the first place, what’s being done to prevent it from happening again, and if they should be worried about the aging pipeline infrastructure pumping fuel all around them.

When we spoke to Sam Bornstein, spokesperson for Sun-Canadian, he provided some more information on how the leak went down:

“We have a very sophisticated monitoring system on all of our pipelines. An alarm went off at 11:27am … and three minutes later [our technician] shut the flow of oil in the pipeline off and then he dispatched people to go along the line and close valves so that oil that was still in the pipeline wouldn’t have an opportunity to reach the point where the opening in the pipeline was. I don’t have information on how long that all took.”

Despite their defensiveness, Sun-Canadian did offer an apology to the communities their diesel spill affected. So that’s something.

We gave Wilson Plain a call, one of Aamjiwnaang’s elders and a co-founder of the Aamjiwnaang environmental committee. Regarding this pipeline leak, Wilson told us the people of Aamjiwnaang “would like to see a regularly scheduled program of maintenance or monitoring,” a seemingly reasonable request.

There is also the habitual issue of poor communication that makes these incidents that much more difficult to control and remedy. Wilson attributes these communication problems to Aamjiwnaang’s own chief and council government, as well as the petrochemical industry: “The lines of communication were open but inordinately delayed by our administration, our administration office and the office of the chief. My thinking is that our chief and council are still hoping to maintain good relations with industry around us, hoping to get some advantage from that. That’s my opinion. And it’s not happening. Suncor is still carrying on.”

Beyond being partially responsible for the pipeline leak, Suncor is also dealing with another environmental crisis—a drainage ditch contaminated with benzene that the company was supposed to clean up in 1999. While Suncor is now trying to isolate the contamination, Wilson Plain along with Ada Lockridge, a strong activist force in Aamjiwnaang, would like the leaky benzene pipeline and the soil it has poisoned removed entirely.


The benzene ditch. Photo by Wilson Plain.

When we talked to Ada about the benzene ditch, she rightfully questioned why this spill has been allowed to fester for the past 14 years: “If these things are decommissioned, get them the hell out of the ground, clean up your mess and get out. I don’t like it sitting around if it’s going to be leaking.”

Wilson, likewise, pointed out the seriousness of having a benzene poisoned ditch in his community: “It’s a drainage ditch that was there since before Suncor was there in 1952. It was a ditch that’s alongside one of our streets. I must tell you that each day our kids, at about 2:30, are taken by bus down that street—and that’s a concern to a lot of parents. And benzene has long-term health effects. It can cause things with the blood like leukemia.”

Wilson’s own grandson died of leukemia, in connection to benzene, at the age of 13.

Suncor did have a meeting with the people of Aamjiwnaang to discuss how they could become “better neighbours,” and it sounded quite civil according to Ada:

“A lot of people came out. They were really happy that that many came out… when we had dinner they had somebody from Suncor at each table. Mike Plain [an Aamjiwnaang elder] did the opening prayer and told them a little bit about our culture, gave them a little teaching. And we sat down to eat and they sat and talked to everybody. So you were able to talk and share whatever was bothering you, and they wrote it all down…”


Black smoke spewing from the Nova plant. Photo by Randi Lockridge.

As Ada and Wilson left the Suncor meeting that night, a “big black plume” of smoke rose from the Nova plant in Corunna that was “clearly” visible from the community centre. Even recollecting the past few months of history in the Chemical Valley and Aamjiwnaang makes it clear that these issues are incredibly cyclical—a spill or leak goes down, there's a flurry of miscommunication as to how it occurred and when, and then it’s forgotten once another incident happens.

While there appears to be more pressure than ever on the Harper government for the way in which it handles the environmental relationship between the Canadian government and our First Nations peoples, more direct attention needs to be placed on the plight of the Aamjiwnaang, as this situation is obviously not improving fast enough.

 

Additional reporting by Michael Toledano.
 

Follow Patrick on Twitter: @patrickmcguire

Watch:

The Chemical Valley - Full Length

Read:

I Left My Lungs in Aamjiwnaang


Bad Cop Blotter: Did Police Screw Up During the DC Navy Yard Shooting?

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Police vehicles outside the Navy Yard on the day of the shooting. Photo by Flickr user Tim Evanson

Last Monday, former Navy Reservist Aaron Alexis shot up the Washington, DC, Navy Yard, killing 12 people before he was taken out by police. But some cops are apparently saying Alexis could have been stopped sooner. In a story that was first reported by local news station WUSA 9, “multiple Capitol Police officers” claim four members of one of the department’s elite, SWAT-like Containment and Emergency Response Teams (CERT) were prevented from going in and maybe saving some lives. The police were clad in full tactical armor and armed with assault weapons, but for some reason their superior prevented them from going in, instead sending them back to guard the Capitol, even though another team was there. That left it up to the less heavily armed Metropolitan Police officers to engage Alexis (one was almost immediately shot).

Details are still scant, though according to USA Today, Capitol Hill Police Chief Kim Dane has ordered an independent investigation into the matter, to be completed by October 21. The radio logs from the incident are being examined.

Perhaps it’s not as bad as it sounds. Maybe it was a fog-of-war type of error. But if so, that would still be a poor excuse. And tactical teams being held back in situations they are tailor-made for is sadly not unprecedented. The most infamous example is probably the 1999 shooting at Columbine High School. During that incident, though police were called at 11:23 AM they didn’t even enter the building until 1 PM because they were busy setting up a perimeter, as protocol back then demanded. By the time a SWAT team started its slow sweep through the halls, the shooters were long dead. Worse, some victims who had survived the initial attack bled out before they were reached. Police timidity at Columbine was embarrassing enough to warrant drastic changes in policy—instead of trying to negotiate with gunman, law enforcement agencies now recognize that some shooters have no demands beyond killing as many people as they can; cops are advised to go in guns first as quickly as possible in order to save some lives.

SWAT officers by definition are supposed to be deployed into highly charged, dangerous situations, they mostly get used in raids on the homes of suspected drugs dealers—if you read this column regularly, you know just how many of these raids hit the wrong house and just how often cops use flashbang grenades and battering rams it situations where those toys aren’t necessary.

As the Navy Yard shooting reminds us, however, cops’ guns and bulletproof vests do serve a purpose. Sometimes, officers need to run into the scary places where the rest of us don’t want to go and do something that most of us aren’t prepared to do: namely, shoot a mentally disturbed man who will kill more people unless he’s stopped. “Active shooter” situations should be where cops shine; where we remember why we gave them guns and badges and such massive privileges—so they’ll risk their lives in order to stop someone like Aaron Alexis.

Now on to this week’s bad cop blotter:

- On Tuesday, Richard Chrisman, a former Phoenix, Arizona, police officer, was acquitted of second-degree murder thanks to a deadlocked jury. Thanks mainly to the testimony of his ex-partner Sergio Virgillo, however, he was convicted of aggravated assault over a 2010 incident that ended with a man named Danny Rodriguez shot dead at Chrisman’s hand. What happened was Virgillo and Chrisman showed up at Rodriguez’s mom’s trailer after she called the cops and said her son was violent and, according to Virgillo, when Rodriguez asked to see a warrant at the door, Chrisman put a gun against the unarmed man’s head and said he didn’t need a warrant. (That’s the aggravated assault charge.) When Rodriguez fled on his bicycle—after being pepper-sprayed and hit by the officers’ stun guns—Chrisman shot him, though according to Virgillo he wasn’t posing any threat. At some point, Chrisman shot and killed Rodriguez’s dog, too, another charge on which the jury couldn’t agree. The aggravated assault verdict carries a five- to 15-year sentence, and Chrisman already got fired from the force—but if Joe Clure, the president of the local police union had anything to say about it, Chrisman’s only punishment would a barrage of cliches about how hard it is to be a cop who had to make “a split-second decision.” Every police shooting ever is indeed a “split-second decision.” Why that is supposed to be an excuse coming from the guys with the badges and the guns has never really been explained.

- Last week, a grand jury decided not to bring charges against former Deland, Florida, police officer James Harris for fatally running over a suspect four months ago. On May 8, Marlon Brown was pulled over by police for a seatbelt violation and he ran away on foot. That probably wasn't the smartest move, but it shouldn't have resulted in what happened next: police cornered Brown in a backyard, and Harris, a rookie cop, just kept right on driving, crushing Brown under his cruiser. The video of the event was so disturbing that as soon as he watched it, the Deland police chief said he knew Harris had to leave the force. The city settled with Brown’s family for $500,000 without admitting any wrongdoing, but the family is still hoping for an independent investigation. You can see why if you watch the video—that is a man (a black man, for what it’s worth) being run down and killed by a car because he wasn’t wearing his seatbelt.

- According to a local news report, a Magnolia,Texas, woman got her jaw broken during an altercation with the cops. It started when Tandra Baker lashed out at her insurance company for its lack of coverage, saying, “This is why people go off and commit suicide” after she couldn’t find a doctor who would help her with her depression. That led to two sheriff’s deputies showing up at her door to make sure she wasn’t about to do something drastic. But Baker was angry at the intrusion, which made at least one of the cops annoyed in turn. She yelled at the deputies, and was eventually cuffed on what was probably disorderly conduct or some similar charge. But Baker, a 35-year-old mother who is about four-foot-eleven according to her husband, struggled, which led to her apparently being pulled out of the police cruiser then thrown to the ground. She suffered a fractured jaw, lost two teeth, and started having seizures as a result of the blow. The unnamed deputy is still on duty, though the sheriff’s department is conducting an internal investigation.

- Earlier this month in San Francisco, police shut down and confiscated the sets of the chess players who hung out on Market Street. Though these folks—who are often homeless—have been playing there for three decades, cops decided that it was a “public nuisance” and was a cover for the prostitution and illicit drug sales going on in the area. Authorities say the players will be able to come back as long as they get some kind of permit from a business, which should be a cinch for homeless men to get, right?

- In Charleston, West Virginia, a mother named Betsy Frame has filed a lawsuit against a deputy sheriff and the vice principal of Riverside High School over their treatment of her special-needs daughter. The school board, which had worked with Frame to develop a special curriculum for the daughter, must have been aware of her problems, which included Asperger's, anxiety disorder, and epilepsy. Nevertheless, back in 2011 her teacher called vice principal Andrew Johnson when the girl (identified as B.D.) fell into one of her dazes and couldn’t be roused. Corporal Richard Lane, the school’s prevention resource officer, was called a few minutes later. When B.D. finally woke up, she hit Lane on the arm—as one might, since he was grabbing her by the elbow. According to the lawsuit, the officer responded by jerking B.D. out of her chair, throwing her on the ground, and cuffing her. She was taken into police custody and charged with battery of a police officer, obstruction of school, and disorderly conduct. These were dropped, but B.D. was suspended. Now Frame says her daughter is traumatized and the school and Lane violated her civil rights.

- Our Good Cops of the Week are any and all of the officers who put themselves in harm’s way in order to stop Aaron Alexis’s massacre. Members of the Naval Criminal Investigative Service, the US Park Police, the DC Metropolitan Police… Dangerous situations like that are why you guys are paid. Thanks.

Lucy Steigerwald is a freelance writer and photographer. Read her blog here and follow her on Twitter: @lucystag

Previously: Another Unarmed Man Meets Trigger-Happy Police

You Can't Just Walk Around Masturbating in Public, Swedish People

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This isn't the famous Swedish masturbator, but whoever this guy is, he should't be jackin' it either. Photo by Surefire

Last week, the Swedish newspaper Mitt i Stockholm reported on a sexual assault case brought against a 65-year-old man who had been seen touching himself on a local beach. Weirdly, he'd been acquitted because "the masturbation wasn't directed or aimed at any specific person." No one seems to know what the man was looking at while he pumped away at his groin—the horizon? An empty boat? A gull—but nevertheless, over the weekend, the story started to ooze its way out to international media outlets.

When the English-language Swedish news website the Local picked up the story, however, something was lost in translation—they messed up one of the quotes given to Mitt i Stockholm by the case's wonderfully named public prosecutor, Olof Vrethammar.

The English translation of Olof's quote, according to the Local: "The district court has made a judgement on this case. With that we can conclude that it is OK to masturbate on the beach. The act may be considered to be disorderly conduct."

The English translation of Olof's quote, according to me, a Swedish person: "The district court has made a judgement on this particular case. Consequently, you CANNOT imply or draw a conclusion that it's OK to masturbate on a beach. This deed could possibly be considered as offensive behavior."

Unfortunately for anyone who wants truth and accuracy in their old-men-jackin'-it-in-public stories, it was the Local's version of the story, not Mitt i Stockholm's, that was picked up by most foreign media companies, leading to a lot of erroneous articles. For example, the Mail Online, one of the world's most popular news sources, wrote, "The decision [to free the man] raises questions about whether public masturbation will now be acceptable across Sweden, so long as it is not directed at another person." The Mail Online then went on to more or less answer those "questions" themselves, citing the Local's mistranslation of Olof's quote as evidence to prove that, from now on, it will be totally fine to wander the streets of Sweden masturbating—as long as you're not aiming your gaze/genitals at anyone while you're doing so.

I'm pretty sure I knew the real story already, but I thought I'd get in touch with Chief Judge Lena Egelin at Stockholm's High Court to clear things up for sure.

VICE: Is it really legal to publicly masturbate in Sweden?
Lena Egelin:
As you can see, that's not really an easy question to answer. But in Sweden, you're not allowed to do something that is considered to be offensive behaviour. And you shouldn't do something to please your sexual needs in front of people because that's molestation. It's always a matter of evaluation in each particular case. And that's why you might get rulings that appear to be weird sometimes.

Right. So does this case with the 65-year-old masturbating on the beach change anything in Swedish law?
No, definitely not! It's always a matter of evaluation in each case. What has been discussed a lot in Sweden lately are situations where people have masturbated at home and someone has walked by their window and seen them. But in each case it's a matter of evaluation in court.

So according to Swedish law, what's the difference between inadvertently flashing someone and performing public masturbation?
I guess it's pretty difficult to claim that you're not masturbating when you are masturbating.

Yeah, right. How seriously does Swedish law look at public masturbation and flashing?
There are regular penalties if you've only done it once. But if you do it several times, it's more serious, and if you do it in front of children it's more serious. But a single time in front of another adult leads to penalties.

The Daily Mail wrote in its article about the case, "Sweden, like its Scandinavian neighbours, tends to have a more tolerant and sometimes progressive approach to social issues." Do you think that's fair?
I can’t really say. But when it comes to these types of cases, other countries might have some difficulties understanding how we deal with things. In some countries it would be considered offensive behavior or sexual assault to swim naked or sunbathe naked, but in Sweden that's legal. And that’s because we have a different point of view on being naked.

On the other hand, other countries might think that our laws around sexual offences are tougher than they are elsewhere. It wasn't that long ago that Sweden, as well as other countries, didn't think that rape could happen within marriage. But these days, rape is always considered rape. Also, rape against children doesn't necessarily have to be a violent act to be seen as child rape in Sweden. As long as you have sex with someone under the age of 15, that's considered to be child rape. Other countries might think that's a bit tough. So I guess Sweden might appear to be a contradictory country in some ways.

So is Swedish law more lenient toward sexual offenders than anywhere else in Europe?
No, not at all.

Follow Caisa on Twitter: @caisasoze

More romance:

Professional Wingmen Will Get You Laid for a Price

Meet the Woman Who's On a Quest to Have Sex with 100,000 Men

Just Before Dawn at a Berlin Swinger Club

Fringes: Heroin Holiday - Trailer

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Every August, while Europe's bankers, lawyers, and other desk jockeys shut off their phones and head to the beach, the junkies of Prague set up camp in the poppy fields outside the city for a vacation of their own. For one glorious month, there are no cops to run from, no dealers to skirt—just acres of vermilion blooms and as much free opium as you can collect before nodding out.

This year we joined the junkies on their heroin holiday, to learn how to turn the same poppies that seed our morning bagels into potent injectable narcotics and sample the most all-natural, locally sourced opiates Europe has to offer. If they ask, please tell our moms we went to Majorca.

The full-length documentary will premiere this week on VICE.com.

More about heroin:

Kicking Heroin with an Ibogaine Ceremony

I Sold My Used Panties for Heroin

The (ex) Biggest Heroin Dealer in the Whole Wide World

 

Why Is Stephen Harper Ignoring the UN's Push to Investigate Missing Aboriginal Women?

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The scene from a recent Missing Women's Memorial March. via Flickr.

Over the last thirty years—according to investigations by the Native Women’s Association of Canada (NWAC) and the UN Committee on the Elimination of Discrimination Against Women (CEDAW)—668 aboriginal women have gone missing or were murdered in Canada. And yet, instead of launching a national inquiry, the Canadian government is biting the head off of anyone who suggests they should lift a finger and figure out how to fix this grave epidemic.

Amnesty International, Human Rights Watch, the Liberals, NDP, Green Party, the country’s premiers, the UN General Assembly—in both 2009 and 2013—and plenty of NGOs have all pressed the government to investigate, but Stephen Harper and Co. are plugging their ears.

The most recent UN report, and rallying cry to investigate this matter, was part of the Universal Period Review (UPR)—meant to “promote and protect human rights in the darkest corners of the world.” The review was met with support from not-so-humane nations like Cuba and Iran, and in response, Canada blasted the UN for allowing Fidel and Mahmoud to criticize Canada at all. How productive.

Perhaps the Tories need a refresher on debating 101: personally attacking your opponent to evade a topic is a fallacy.

But sure, I’ll accept that Iran is pretty bad with human rights and stuff even if their issues are completely unrelated to Aboriginal issues. And Cuba is Cuba. Let’s not even get into that.

But hold on a minute. Besides Iran and Cuba, Mexico, Switzerland, Slovakia, Slovenia, New Zealand, Norway, Belarus, Ireland, and Australia all suggested a national action plan or inquiry into missing Aboriginal women in Canada was necessary. So, why aren’t we listening?

What’s more, the UPR was led by a troika of Brazil, the Philippines, and Ireland—not Iran or Cuba—and was compiled with consultation from 48 Canadian NGOs including First Nation’s groups like the NWAC. But Canada has maintained that this is a national issue that the international community should basically butt out.

Not surprisingly, Canada has towed this line since before the UN even existed. Back in 1922, the Iroquois confederacy came hat in hand to apply for sovereignty at the League of Nations—because hey, First Nations are literally nations too—in hopes that the League could settle land disputes. But Canada made a fuss and convinced the League to let the issue remain domestic. Not much has changed.

In their response to the UPR, Canada highlighted a pretty good-looking list of plans to address Aboriginal issues in this country in an attempt to prove that a costly inquiry is unnecessary. I mean, what’s so great about public inquiries in the first place?

When an $8 million 1500 page inquiry into missing and murdered Aboriginal women in British Columbia was published last year—focusing particularly on the impoverished Vancouver Downtown Eastside and the brutal murders of 26 women by the infamous serial killer Robert Pickton—Vancouver police, the RCMP, and even some of the victims’ families blasted it for being ineffective.

The daughter of one of the victims, Angel Wolfe, said at the final report hearing: “I think today has been a total sham, just like the whole inquiry has been.”

With unimpressive inquiries leading to very little progress, perhaps an investigation (external or otherwise) is necessary—if for no other reason than to confirm the exact number of murdered or missing women. The only national organization that compiled information about it has been the NWAC and their Sisters in Spirit project, but the government slashed its funding in 2010. Cash flow or not, with all respect to the NWAC, their numbers don’t hold as much sway as a federally-mandated inquiry would, especially when the RCMP says they can’t confirm the number based on their databases.

Speaking of lacking credibility, when Human Rights Watch came out with their report in February that concluded the RCMP and Vancouver police used torture, intimidation and rape against aboriginals in BC, the RCMP said the findings were useless unless the anonymous sources came forward. If I were one of those victims, I probably wouldn’t come to the RCMP either if they were the ones who brutalized me. But still, if a transparent public inquiry was done federally, perhaps these women could be given more protection than what Human Rights Watch can offer.

What is clear is that the issues facing aboriginal women in Canada—dubbed by Amnesty International as a “grave human rights crisis”—are not going away anytime soon. There is most certainly something to be said about the issue of violence against women in Canada in general, but when you look at the facts that Aboriginal women report sexual or violent abuse almost three times more than non-Aboriginal women, have more than twice the unemployment rate, and have the highest suicide rate in the world it’s hard to not immediately focus on First Peoples women. Unless, of course, you’re Stephen Harper.

In 2005, Paul Martin’s party was about to sign the Kelowna Accord, pledging $5 billion over five years to help fight the massive social inequalities gap between aboriginal and non-aboriginal people, but Harper scrapped it as soon as he got elected. According to Terry Mitchell, a psychology professor at Wilfred Laurier University and Lori Curtis, an economics professor at the University of Waterloo, the Kelowna Accord would have saved taxpayers a whopping $115 billion by 2026 due to the load taken off of government programs that aboriginals rely on so heavily.

All of this is, unsurprisingly, generating a new wave of dissent amongst aboriginal communities in Canada. A paper by Douglas Bland of the Macdonald-Laurier think tank compiling research from Oxford warned that with the growing population of aboriginal youth—Canada’s fastest growing population, half of which live in poverty—could spur an insurrection that would cripple the Canadian economy from coast-to-coast.

Currently Idle No More is a peaceful and cultural protest movement, but while the government is busy spying on Idle No More activists, visiting pandas instead of meeting with Idle No More leaders on hunger strike and complaining about the UN—including an Ontario MP who suggested we “review” our membership— instead of taking action, aboriginal anger is mounting.

On October 7th, the UN will send Special Rapporteur on the Rights of Indigenous Peoples James Anaya to Canada to lead another investigation into Aboriginal human rights issues in this country. Idle No more has scheduled a nation-wide protest for the same day, hoping to get the attention of the government while they are on an extended summer vacation before the Throne Speech on October 16th. Perhaps then the Harper government will listen to calls for an inquiry, but I wouldn’t bet on it.

 

Spy on Joel through Twitter: @JoelBalsam

Previously:

Stephen Harper Likes Pandas More than Idle No More

First Nations Women Are Being Sold Into the Sex Trade On Ships Along Lake Superior

Meet the Native Activist Who the Canadian Government was Spying On

Motherboard: Long Shot: Inside the Scope of Smart Weapons

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It was high noon. The Tower's 3.5-ton bell chimed out 16 poms, right on cue. By then, the temperature was well into the triple digits. The sun beamed down on locals and university students, faculty, and staff alike, all going about their business and lives. August 1, 1966, was just another Monday in Austin, Texas. Then someone started shooting.

Claire Wilson was the first to be shot at. She was eight months pregnant. The shooter made sure to hit the 18-year-old anthropology student in the abdomen. Claire's fiance Thomas Eckman was right there beside her, and took a round as he knelt to her aid. Confusion followed as the crackle of shots reverberated across campus. The bullets just kept coming—in other directions, at other bystanders. But where were the shots coming from? 

Before long, authorities spotted a man, later identified as former US Marine and UT engineering student Charles Whitman, perched on the 28th floor observation deck of the university's Main Building, the University of Texas at Austin's 307-foot administrative center known simply as the Tower. It's one of most iconic features in Austin.

For a skilled sniper bent on senseless slaughter, it was the perfect spot from which to track and kill innocent civilians. Whitman adhered, chillingly, to the one shot, one kill sniper ethos, meaning none of his victims were hit by follow-up shots after they'd crumbled to the ground. When it was all over, 16 of them were dead. Whitman wounded another 32, one of whom later died.

It was without precedent. The Austin Tower massacre almost single-handedly led to the rise of the modern SWAT unit. Nearly five decades on and the tragedy stands as one of the first major mass shootings in American history, and being somewhat unique in that it put sniping front and center in the national consciousness.

Continue reading at Motherboard.

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