Desert Dingo Racing has never won the Baja 1000. They've
never even finished. The Baja 1000 is the longest continuous off-road race in the world and the Desert Dingoes are one of only a handful of teams that race it in Class 11—stock pre-1982 Volkswagen Beetles. The brainchild of Burning Man spokesman Jim Graham, the
Dingoes are an eclectic bunch, from weed-smoking 63-year-old Dennis "Crusty"
Lange to heating and cooling man and quad enthusiast Gil Medrano. What they set
out to accomplish each November is a nearly impossible task. It's like trying to win the America's Cup in a blowup raft.
When Toby Fray, my friend and youngest member of the Dingoes,
first told me about the team, I didn't know if I should believe him. Fray is
the kind of wildcard who
would
off-road race on the side, but it was hard to believe that he went to the western peninsula of Mexico every
November to drive 1,000 miles in a VW Bug.
"We're so incapable of traversing this terrain, just
by being Class 11, that there's definitely some insanity involved," he told me. Then why does he do it? "A little masochism maybe. But you can't experience
something like this anywhere else." It didn't take much convincing before I was
on my way down to Baja to stay with Fray and the team and trail their Bug during the race.
Fray had explained that the Dingoes's chances were slim—they'd raced
in the Baja three times already and never come close to finishing. But as I talked to the team during the week leading up to the
race, I started to believe that they could really win this year. The older members of the team were incredibly confident, and even Fray started to become hopeful as
the race approached. Things were looking up for the Desert Dingoes. The Bug was
in great shape and the team had a bunch of new technology in the car—satellite
phones, a portable hotspot, a better GPS—to make communication on the Baja's
huge course less difficult. But by the time the team reached the 200-mile
marker, everything had gone to shit.
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Racecar driver Toby Fray gets out to observe the wreckage after attempting to veer off course to avoid silt pits at mile marker 205 of the Baja 1000.
We were deep in the land east of Punta Colonet—gorgeous
rolling desert like much of the northern half of Baja California, all small
shrubs, agave cacti, sandy peaks, and burnt-brown ranches—when Fray radioed
to tell us that he and his co-driver Cyrus Roohi were stranded. They were
ankle-deep in silt, halfway up a hill to the right of an antenna tower. The tower was
the only landmark in what felt like an endless desert sprawl. It'd been 20
hours since the Bug left Ensenada and the Desert Dingoes were less than a sixth of
the way through the 1,275-mile Baja 1000 race. It looked like it was over.
Chuck Gianni studied the GPS in his 1990 Suburban as his
brother-in-law Medrano talked to Fray on the radio. The truck raced along the
bumpy dirt course, veering up onto shrubs to avoid patches of the ultra-fine,
quicksand-like silt which plagues the Baja racers. Finally, we spotted the 1969
matte-black VW Bug marooned atop some cacti on the side of the hill near the
antenna tower. The Bug's front left fender had been ripped off and Fray's face was half-covered with white dust.
He popped the hood as we approached and hooked a black toe-line to the back of
the Suburban. The silt was thick and the hill was steep, so the wheels of the
truck sputtered for a moment before catching and hauling the Bug to the crest.
But from the flat top of the hill we could see that there was a 70-degree
decline and then an even steeper sandy incline to summit.
Fray's co-pilot Cyrus Roohi, who had flown in from Virginia
to help out and take notes for his own Class-11 team, thought it was time for
the Desert Dingoes to cut their losses. He thought it was most prudent to tow
the Bug out to Highway 1, meet the rest of the team there, and head home.
"We're going to grind for four more hours and still end up on a trailer," he
told Fray.
But Fray, blond hair rustled up and blue eyes peaking
through his dusted face, would have none of quitting. "We grinded nine months
to get here!"
He stared hard at Roohi and took a deep breath of the hot,
dusty desert air. "I'll fucking drive it myself!"
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The Desert Dingoes tune up the Bug before the race at a fellow class 11 racer's compound in Ensenada, Baja California.
In reality, it took way more than nine months for the Dingoes
to get to that desert hill by Punta Colonet. In December of 2006, Graham, a
wide-eyed and curly-haired 53-year-old, and his wife Roxanne came across the
documentary
Dust to Glory—a 2005 film
that valorizes the Baja 1000 race. "Ten minutes in, I turned to her and said,
'I have to win this race,'" Graham told me. "And she's like, 'You don't know
anything about cars.' I said, 'I don't care, I got to do it.'"
He called a few friends who, after seeing the documentary,
were as ready as Graham to give it a shot. They bought a 1969 VW Bug rolling
chassis for $300 and, 11 months later, the first incarnation of the Desert
Dingo went off the start line at the 2007 Baja 1000. "It's like saying,
Why don't I take up jogging? and the
first thing you do is the Olympic Decathlon."
I met Graham before this year's race at his house in Felton,
California, deep in the forest outside of Santa Cruz. He'd agreed to take us to
Mexico in his 1985 VW Bus, and we started the crawl toward Baja early Sunday
morning. We met the rest of the team at a San Diego Walmart that night and made
it to the starting line in Ensenada late in the afternoon on Monday, three days
before the race.
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Desert Dingoes, from left to right: Romy Frederick, Dennis "Crusty" Lange, Chuck Gianni, Toby Fray, Gil Medrano, Rosh Edwards, and Cyrus Roohi.
Downtown Ensenada was all done up—a Coca-Cola stage, a
Monster Energy tent, and a bunch other sponsor booths set up around the Riviera
del Pacifico Cultural Center—but the team's convoy of cars drove past the ritzy
hotels filled with Trophy Truck drivers and up a dirt hill in the southeast
side of town. We passed some rundown shacks and a few empty lots, before
stopping in front of a maroon gate. The Dingoes had arrived at the compound of
another Class 11 team owner.
We unloaded the cars, claimed bunk beds in the two-story
boarding house, and then went to the empty lot across the road where Dingo
crew member Crusty had parked his RV. He was perched at the edge a sharp cliff
face looking down over roofless shacks, Highway 1, and finally a cobalt cove. We
sat down in lawn chairs on the cliff side and Crusty lit a joint as we watched
traffic fly by on Highway 1.
The Dingoes's eight members had spent every Saturday and
Sunday for the last three months in Roseville, California, wrenching on their VW
to earn the right to drive—"It's like a Marxist collective," Graham told me—and
in a little less than 70 hours they'd see the fruits of their labor.
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Motorcyclists take off first in 30-second intervals, starting with last year's winner.
At 6 AM on the morning of the race, a crowd was gathered around
the starting line downtown. Every 30 seconds for the next hour, a dirt bike
exploded off the line, taking a sharp left turn and then another, before flying
off a dirt hill into a dried-up canal. After the last motorcycle took off, the
first of the quads began the race.
Back at the compound, the Desert Dingoes were making their
final preparations. The Trophy Trucks—$750,000 vehicles with three-feet of
suspension and helicopter escorts—would leave at noon, followed by the UTVs,
the less powerful trucks, and the Baja Bugs—like Class 11s but with suped-up
engines. The Desert Dingoes would be the last to leave the starting line,
setting off at 2:30 PM.
The Dingoes met for a frenzied final pre-race meeting later
that morning. Graham told the group that they were the Class 11 team to beat and
everyone in the room seemed to believe him. But then one Dingo laid out a
thrown-together driving order and another teammember gave an incredibly vague
explanation of the chase car plan, and I started to worry. I asked Gil Medrano
if this haphazard coordination was par for the course, and he broke out in a
grin. "Welcome to Desert Dingo Racing. Organized chaos."
The Dingo's caravan drove down the hill to the start line. The
first pair of Dingo drivers hopped into the Bug, while Romy and Jen Frederick—the
Dingoes' PhD-holding high school sweethearts and long-haired Midwesterners—started
the Suburban chase car, which they'd drive for the first leg. I hopped in back
and we took off. Crusty's RV and Graham's VW Bus would meet back up with the
Bug 200 miles down Highway 1.
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Local children cheer on Trophy Trucks at a rural crossroads on the Baja Peninsula.
As we left Ensenada, the one-story wood homes and
storefronts began to disappear. After a few miles, it was all empty desert,
save for the occasional ranch or wrecking yard.
Everything we passed was for sale—it was all bone-dry and barren.
We stopped at the first place where the course crossed the
highway, a little military outpost called Ojos Negros. Romy and I walked to the
gas station to buy a 12-pack while my photographer and Jen went to watch the
Trophy Trucks drive by. A crowd of locals gathered on a small incline above the
track as ranchero music blasted from a parked SUVs stereo. It was an odd moment
of tranquility before a text from the Bug on the Iridium GO—the portable
satellite hotspot—evaporated any sense of calm. "Desert Dingo stuck in silt at
Race Mile 60." We hurried back to the Suburban, pulled a U-Turn, and jetted
north back up Highway 3. We had small-talked on the way to Ojos Negros, but the
drive back was silent. This was supposed to be the year that the Dingoes won
their class at the Baja 1000, but things were already going wrong.
At Race Mile 50, Romy took a sharp left turn onto the course
and floored it. The Suburban bounced violently over the harsh divots and
skidded around blind turns. When Jen gripped her armrest, he shot her a
glare—for a moment the 30-year-olds felt like an old married couple. "The
Suburban's not a racecar," Jen said. "Don't break it, honey." He rolled his
eyes.
Five miles onto the course, Gianni, the Bug's driver, texted
us back on the satellite phone. They were at Mag 1—the first of the pits to
refuel—and the Bug was dumping oil. Romy told him to check the valve cover
gasket and after changing it, they got the car going. A few minutes later,
Gianni radioed to tell us: "We're having trouble getting into second."
"Is it grinding?" Romy asked.
"A little," Gianni said.
Romy turned to me. "That's not good."
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The Desert Dingo Bug tears down the course, trying to make up time after setbacks and repairs.
At 8 PM, Romy finally got through to Graham on the satellite
phone and they agreed to wait and change the transmission at Mag 3, where the
rest of the chase vehicles were parked. We pulled to the side of the highway to
wait for our Bug, watching racers pass. The Desert Dingoes were already close
to last place.
Finally, we saw the Bug fly past and started after it.
Gianni radioed to say that they still couldn't get the car into first gear,
which meant they couldn't slow down. The Bug flew down the highway and then
took a sharp left back onto the course. The road was a dirt path that cut
between farms and shacks in the small town. There were no streetlights, only
the wide starry sky and the Desert Dingoes red and blue flashing roof lights.
It was beautiful to watch the Bug fly at 70 MPH over the bumpy course as we
tried to keep up. For the first time, I really believed that the Dingoes had a
chance—maybe not to win, but to at least finally finish the race.
The racecar rattled its way over a few more divots before
hitting a larger bump and going airborne. We watched as the Bug's wheels lifted
from the ground and then everything went dark—the harsh landing had completely
stalled it out. Gianni radioed: "It's a booby trap!" Romy backed off the
Suburban's gas and took it slow over the bootlegged ramp.
Booby traps are an interesting look into the Baja locals'
relationship with the race. In small towns throughout the peninsula, Mexicans
will build makeshift jumps on the course. The Trophy Trucks and the motorcycles
hit them and fly in the air, which makes for great theater for the spectators,
who camp out with beers and grills to watch the race. There are YouTube videos
showing the best way to build a jump and some that show locals lying under the jump
as trucks soar over them.
Unfortunately, VW Beetles aren't built to fly through
the air, and a booby trap can mean the end of their race. But it's worth
noting, there is no malice toward the Class 11s. Every local we met wanted pictures
with the old Bugs and respected the Dingoes crazy decision to try to finish the
race. The marooned VW Bugs just happen to be an unfortunate side effect of a
truly awesome sight to see while drunk—an 800 horsepower truck flying through
the air.
The Dingo could not start in the loose sand on the other
side of the booby trap, so we hooked it to the Suburban and towed it 100 yards
to solid ground. Gianni and I walked after the car. Hopelessness was setting
back in, but the night was warm and the stars were out. We didn't say much as
we walked.
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After getting destroyed by a booby trap, racecar driver Gil Medrano and co-driver Chuck Gianni lick their wounds while the team chase truck drags the Bug to the nearest pit stop for repairs.
We push started the Bug and it set off again, limping the
last 20 miles into Mag 2. When we arrived, the pit crew fueled it up while Jen
talked to Graham on the phone. We were 40 miles from Mag 3, where we'd planned
to change the transmission and the Bug was in bad shape. Romy and I stood
behind the car, trying to push-start it, but it was stuck in second gear and
wouldn't budge. Jen tried in vain to convince the rest of the team to drive
backwards on the course and fix the transmission right there. Romy turned to
her and shouted, "Tell them to get back here or we're out!"
Right then, we started to rock the Bug and finally it
rumbled back to life. If the Bug could make it to Mag 3, the Dingo's race
wasn't over. We hopped in the Suburban to trail it down the road.
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Near midnight, Romy Frederick and the Desert Dingoes remove the Bug's engine and replace its transmission on the side of the course.
Twenty minutes later, Gianni radioed to tell us they'd lost
all power. They glided almost a half-mile like a soapbox derby car, but
eventually, a gradual incline halted their progress. We hopped out of the
Suburban and strapped the Bug's towline to the back of the truck. We were 25
miles from Mag 3 with a curvy drive over an unlit mountain pass between the
Dingo and the rest of the team and the Bug was completely dead. We'd have to
tow it the rest of the way.
I was silent in the back of the Suburban, having visions of
the Bug slipping off the edge of the cliff, pulling the truck down with it. But
Romy was relaxed up front. He took each turn at 30 MPH, confidently keeping the
wide truck on the road with the towline taut. I tried to picture the knot that
connected the Dingo to the back of the Suburban and prayed he had tied
it right.
The tow, more than anything all week, illuminated the odd
blend that makes up the Desert Dingo Racing Team. Gianni and his co-pilot
Medrano are from Northern California, but have drawls, conservative ideals, and
a love affair with their trucks. Romy and Jen are the opposite—they're Burning
Man regulars with PhDs from Berkeley. But on that desolate mountain road,
strapped tightly into their powerless Bug, Gianni, and Medrano had absolute
trust in Romy and Jen to drag them to safety.
The dream of conquering the Baja
1000 in a 1969 VW Bug had brought these completely incongruent characters onto
that highway, with their lives in each other's hands. After 45 minutes, the
Suburban pulled into the BF Goodrich pit by Mag 3 with the Desert Dingo in tow.
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Race car driver Toby Fray, delirious after driving through the night, takes a moment after the Bug's final breakdown at Race Mile 205.
The guys at the BF Goodrich tent—and really, every other
driver and pit worker at the Baja 1000—were much more similar to Gianni and
Medrano than Romy and Jen. Fray, a San Francisco native, had told me: "You go
to these races and in the pits, there're fucking 'Impeach Gore' flags, and
you're like,
What does that even
mean?
" So when Romy and Fray—who met us at the pit—started the arduous task
of switching out the engine, there were some wary eyes upon them.
Medrano and Gianni tried to help, but were too delirious to
do productive mechanical work. They'd been in the car for ten hours, fighting
hard for every one of the 156 miles they'd traveled. So instead, they told
anyone and everyone their race stories. Off-road racing is a team sport, but is
also a hugely personal endeavor. For much of the race, the driver and co-driver
are confronting pulse-raising action apart from their team. Most of the race is
experienced in hearsay, and Medrano and Gianni's account of their initial
breakdown changed each time they told it. At first, they got stuck in the silt
because of an unfortunate mistake trying to pass another Class 11. By the 20th telling,
there was nothing they could have done to avoid it.
Finally, the engine was installed and Dingo partners Roohi
and Fray climbed in. The message all week had been "Smooth is fast, deliver the
car," but the Dingoes needed more than that to have any chance to finish before
the time limit ran out. Fray stepped on the gas and the Bug flew out of the BF
Goodrich pit.
Romy bummed a cigarette and we all cracked beers. After
eight hours of ups and downs, the transmission was repaired and we could
finally exhale. It was 1 AM.
The rest of the chase vehicles were gathered around a small
dirt patch close to Mag 3. I got out a sleeping bag and laid down on the edge
of the trailer, trying to get warm in the frigid desert night. After a couple
hours of shivering, I passed out. I woke
up at 6:15, chugged an energy drink, and watched the sunrise.
In my exhaustion the night before, I hadn't noticed where we
parked, but in the morning light, it was clearly a bizarre stopping point. The
barren lot was strewn with trash and burnt shrubs and there was a big crater
about ten yards to our left. A teenager walked past with a plastic shopping bag
full of clams, offering to sell us some. We were miles from the ocean.
That's when we got the call from Roohi, saying that they
were stuck for good halfway up a sandy hill by Punta Colonet. The only landmark
as far as the eye could see was an antenna tower. We climbed back into the
Suburban and headed off to save the Bug again.
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Toby Fray gives local children a ride in the Bug after the Desert Dingoes bow out of the Baja 1000.
"I'll fucking drive
it myself!" Fray shouted at Roohi, under the shadow of the radio antenna. He
climbed into the Bug's driver's seat and sped recklessly for half a mile before
finally admitting the futility of continuing. He met up with us in the Suburban
by Highway 1. "Well, we already fucking lost," Fray said to me. "You want to go
for a ride?"
I got into Roohi's racing suit and strapped into the
co-driving seat as the Suburban trailed us to a gas station in Punta Colonet. Even
on the paved highway, you can feel every single bump. And there is no
windshield, so specks of dirt and concrete flew right into my race helmet's
visor. During the ride, I started to understand why the Dingoes do what they
do—the Baja 1000 in a Class 11 is truly an adventure. It exists on another
plane—the boyhood world of fort building, color wars, and double dog dares. I
was buzzing on adrenaline as we pulled in front of a little taco shop next to
the gas station.
Roohi went to buy a 12-pack while we stood by the car.
Little kids ran up from the town, asking for Hero Cards—small posters with the
team's logo and picture on it—and autographs. Fray took the kids on drives
around the lot while I tried to explain in broken Spanish that the Dingoes had
stopped because their wheel flew right off the car. The Dingoes had lost the
race, but to these kids, they were absolutely heroes. Their excitement was
infectious.
Joseph Bien-Kahn is a freelance reporter, part-time café worker, and roving intern in San Francisco. He's had articles published in the Rumpus and the Believer, and writes a hip-hop column for BAMM.tv. He's also editor-in-chief of the literary mag OTHERWHERES. Follow him on Twitter.
Toby Silverman is fine-art photographer based in San Francisco. You can see more of his work here.